Vauxhall Owners Club

Hi....welcome to the Club That's unfortunate that its got problems just after you purchased it....is there a warranty with it? I think the only thing you can do is doing what your already doing but oil can creep along surfaces so it proves difficult to isolate the exact cause. I would start with the oil pressure switch and then look at whether it is coming from a certain level or if it is something rotating it thats throwing it around the engine. At least if you can isolate the area it is coming from then look more specifically for the exact cause Let us know how you get on with it

You could try to engage first gear and then try reverse gear, if this eases the selection then it is sometimes the best way. Alternatively, the clutch could be dragging slightly / worn and not able to fully disengage

There is an additive on the market called Stop Smoke, think it is made by Wynns or STP Probably best to run it on 10w40 as this should reduce the symptoms

Thanks for the update. Still confusing as to what the fault is but at least the warning lamp is now off. Another area to consider for noise is the crankshaft pulley as this can create very odd noises and is diagnosed by removing the auxiliary drivebelt which runs the alternator, etc. If the belt is removed and the noise disappears then this is the issue.

Do you have a dashcam? This may be a hardwire for the dashcam

Check the battery is fully charged and delivering the power the system needs to operate. Also, if it has discharged in the past (e.g. during lockdown) then the battery charge may need resetting via a scan tool for the vehicle to know the new voltage (e.g. post lockdown)

Hi Andy I would probably recommend a heavier grade of oil (10w40) as it has done the high mileage. The thinner viscosity can result in blow-by in the cylinders if there is excessive wear which can result in burning oil. Also, the thicker oil will be fine it the engine is allowed to get hot enough to burn off carbon within the engine, if it is being used locally then maybe stick with the 10w30.

Hi Maurice.....welcome to the Club Should be closest to the fan so in the underbonnet fusebox I would imagine (look near the battery area, hopefully you will find it there)

Let us know how you get on with it Keith

Hi Andy....welcome to the Club As far as I can tell it only has one reverse light as does many other vehicle models nowadays. Can usually be found on the opposite side of the foglamp (e.g. on the nearside in the UK)

I'm thinking that sometimes the brake light switches sometimes don't latch in far enough to make contact with the pedal and switch on and off when the pedal is moved (listen for slight clicking noise). It may have moved back slightly if the light went out but has now come back?

Where the cable or rod goes into the latch mechanism is where you need to be looking at to see if there is anything you can do to influence releasing the door. I have in the past used a long lever bar and hammer to break the plastic housing around the latch area.

It would definitely be advisable to rectify the issue with the NOx sensor as this could affect the DPF operation

I believe fuse 22 should be under the dashboard area?

I think you are correct to start with the fuel filter but also the housings tend to leak on the filter as well so if you see or smell neat fuel leaking from that area then replace the housing as well

I think you may have fallen across the fault at the end of your post.....the brake light switch also sends a signal to the Engine Management System (EMS) to indicate the engine is on overrun. A lot of cars have two brake switches, one to control the brake lights and the other to control the EMS. Worth replacing the switch and see if that makes a difference

It could be an exhaust leak before the catalytic converter (oxygen level high) Plug the exhaust by holding a rag firmly over the tailpipe and listen for hissing which would indicate a leak somewhere in the system.

I would be tempted to remove the stereo completely and take it back to standard to see if that resolves the issue. Quite possibly he has tapped into the canbus wiring and this has affected the vehicle

No, you probably wont be able to remove the latch mechanism but you could try pulling the lever up/down to release the latch. It may be that the central locking servo is not operating the lever so try locking and unlocking to see what is occurring. Worst case scenario is to destroy the plastic on the latch mechanism and force the latch into the release position with a bar but obviously that would necessitate replacement which if faulty then nothing lost

Hi.....welcome to the Club Modified Fords, sounds interesting....got any photos of the featured cars?

Hi.....welcome to the Club

Enjoy the Forums

Sounds like the latch mechanism is broken. May have to remove the door panel from inside the car and release the latch manually. It can be done and if careful enough without damage (that can be seen)

Hi....welcome to the Club Feel free to fire off some of your questions and hopefully someone will be able to assist

Hi....welcome to the Club Hope you are enjoying the Insignia? Good to have you onboard!