Vauxhall Owners Club

All of the diagnosis seem plausible but only one is more than likely causing the fault. I would consider very carefully how much money you throw at this fault without determining the exact cause (considering that age of the car and the extent to which damage may have occurred) If the coolant has leaked into the ABS unit then quite possible it may also have traced up the wiring into the loom and this can be expensive to replace. So a rebuild of the ABS unit may only be half of the problem. Companies like BBA Reman are very good at diagnosing faulty units and offering an exchange one for a reasonable price

Not sure of which exact fuse to tap into but have done this job before on a Honda and measured the volts to see which fuse is live and if it goes off when the ignition is switched off....seemed to be completely different to the one I though it would be (fusebox cover description)....best to measure as you will definitely know which one is best.

Hi....welcome to the Club Thats a fine looking Insignia, particularly like the end of the reg number. Good to have you onboard!

Not sure if Nextbase do an attachment for a rear facing camera that will fit onto the 522? If not then one of their range of cameras would be the cheapest (and best) option

It helps to assist the seat back retraction by applying some backward pressure against it before pulling the release lever. Its the same on my Alfa Romeo Mito (in fact the drivers cable has now snapped) but by pressing against the seat back to alleviate the sprung pressure that is on the mechanism it makes it much easier to release and less chance of breaking anything

Worth looking at the connectors and sometimes works if you disconnect the plugs, turn 360 degrees and refit as if bad connection then it applies a slight bias to the pins when there is a slight resistance against them from twisting it round....works on French cars a treat Also look for broken wires leading to the connectors, poor earth points and leads, etc

I would start with the local dealership or eBay

I'm sure the local dealer could print out the diagram showing part numbers for you Done it in the past with other manufacturers parts lists and as long as you say you're coming back to order the parts they seem happy with that and will print out what you need

Not entirely sure but if the SnapOn scanner has the function to recalibrate (reset) the throttle body then this may cure it

It is hard to test the ballast resistor and very dangerous but this may be the fault. Maybe worth swapping them over from the opposite side to see if the fault lies there

I recommend a Battery Conditioner which does just that.....it conditions a battery by discharging, overcharging and then maintaining the charge. This is far better that just packing a charge into a battery especially if it is already sulphated and constantly need charging. Also more beneficial for cars that are not used frequently and you can just hook up through a permanently connected lead that will sit in the engine bay and can only connect one way to the conditioner so very simple and safe and can be left on for extended periods of time. Go to Halfords to see which ones they have on offer and recommend

Oh I can see why it didn't want to come out on its own (which it should do by pulling at it) but if held in by corrosion it would be tough to remove Well done Andy....onto the refit then, good luck and let us know how you get on

I use iCarSoft which works well on Vauxhalls....very good price as well

I would try them (put one on to try out) and see what is looks like. You can then turn the steering if fitted on the front and see if it fouls anything.

Unless it is a turbo-timer function that is in place to allow the oil to circulate and cool the turbo rather than instantly shutting it down and starving the hot turbo of oil after a motorway run for example

between 1,100kg and 1,400kg Vauxhall Grandland X The one potential fly in the ointment is the maximum towing limit of the Grandland X; depending on the model, you can expect an upper limit of between 1,100kg and 1,400kg.

I would advise removing the auxiliary drivebelt to see if this is a fault with the crankshaft pulley, if no difference then you will need to dig deeper

sounds like a poor connection somewhere behind the radio. maybe someone has removed it before and not plugged in back in correctly or securely enough

It is the fan control resistor pack....the resistors between the lower speeds have failed and therefore no resistance to the motor on speed 4 so runs flat out Replace the resistor pack and that will sort it

Hi InsigMart ...welcome to the Club That's what forums are for, hope you find the answers you're looking for

Sounds like your winning the battle Certainly looks superb now

It should be possible to slide out the old big end bearings and fit new ones and would probably replace the bolts if possible and not too expensive

It appears that it should just slide out but may need some gentle easing to remove

You can always post it in the For Sale section of this forum and photos would definitely help

Would start with checking battery voltage and heavy discharge test with headlights on to see how the battery holds up, charge or replace as necessary