Vauxhall Owners Club

Try this company. https://catman.co.uk/

The trouble with cooling systems is that once you fix a leak the pressure then goes to the next weakest point so potentially it could have gone within the engine (you don't state whether petrol or diesel engine - different tests for each one to determine if engine is leaking internally). I would definitely start with replacing the Coolant Pressure Cap as if this is weak then the pressure drops and can lead to higher temperatures which boil off the coolant and also to allow air to enter the cooling system. Very cheap and easy part to replace to start with the diagnostic process. From there I would go with a pressure test to see if the pressure drops within the system and also to see if it is leaking externally under pressure. After that then it is a case of internal engine investigation but even then this can be done without too much dismantling of components

It is quite ambiguous as the answers I have found state between 60k to 100k miles but they all do state 5 years as the key time to change the cambelt

Hi Eric.....welcome to the Club You are more than welcome to dive into answering any questions you feel like responding to, especially any electronics related topics. Good to have you onboard!

I like the Combo diesel and as long as its maintain properly (like any car really) then it shouldn't give you problems

Either would do fine for this country

It could be a fault with the switch, one of the calipers or even the pads sticking in the carrier brackets. Also, ensure that the EPB has been calibrated when the pads were replaced and retracting the piston, if not then this may also be the problem

Nice to keep such memorabilia as it will always go up in value as the years go by I have quite a collection of automobilia and wouldn't throw any of it away (as most people do)

Depends on how they have been treated. ....regular oil changes, allowing the turbo to cool down after a long motorway run, allowing the engine to warm up slowly without excessive turbo boost. All things considered there is no reason to believe that a turbo could not last as long as the car itself

I will move this post to the For Sale section of the forums and sure there will be some members who will be after some parts

Hi Jason.....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

A steering column may fix the issue but it would cost a lot and if you can put up with it for a while longer then may be the best bet If the issue is with the electric power steering intermittently working on start up but having to start a couple of times for it so start working then this is usually battery related and a better quality or more powerful battery tends to resolve the issue

You could try to argue this with the dealership but doubt you'll get far. Timing chains tend to break across a whole range of vehicles and although they should be lifetime (e.g. 100k miles which used to be a vehicle lifespan) they aren't that durable

Could be a slight exhaust leak in or around the exhaust manifold, downpipe or catalytic converter area which would be drawing air and causing this code

It should be programmed if rebuilt to fit straight back on, but not sure if it is a replacement one from another car....may need recoding

Ebay would be my preferred choice to buy most parts especially older model parts

Oh crikey, that's very unfortunate as you had just bought the car. Luckily the sacrificial rocker arms saved you from having to remove the head assembly. Not sure of the exhaust temperatures though but may be unburnt fuel and oil sitting in the cylinders. Maybe keep an eye on it and it should decrease Alternatively, the oil may be coming through from the turbo and if you believe it is damaged then I would replace it if cheap enough

Well that doesn't surprise me coming from a dealership as the brakes should not be seized due to under-breaking. It is more likely that the pads have seized in the caliper carrier assembly due to having no anti-seize compound being applied when fitting the pads. It should be a simple job to remove the pads, apply some anti-seize (copperslip or similar) and refit The discs or even the pads should not need replacing at that mileage though Let us know how you get on with it all

Crikey, may have to damage the cap to remove and the new one should go back nicely if no damage to the housing has occurred

Usually they just pull off if you can get your fingernails behind or other use a plastic blade to get behind the cover

Tough one to value but if you could upload some photos on here and maybe place a For Sale advert in the forum section then this may provoke some responses with a rough valuation Overall, it depends on the condition of the car so photos would be helpful

Superb news Andy and well done for keeping the old girl on the road.....here's to another year of trouble-free motoring

Job well done Andy !

Hi Jagman....welcome to the Club

Hi Chris....welcome to the Club