Vauxhall Owners Club

It sounds like its all part of the ADAS system which needs to be reset via the dealership as very complex procedure while using very expensive and specialist equipment

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It is maybe related to the glow plug circuit to show it is working and then goes out once warm. If the light stays on then it signifies an error code has been flagged

Crankshaft Position Sensor sounds like the most likely culprit Works fine when cold after trying to restart on warm engine then no start. Let it cool then the resistance in the sensor changes back to normal and hey presto! Test and replace the sensor may be the answer

Turbo's should run indefinitely if the engine has had regular oil changes and the turbo treated properly (e.g. allowed to warm up and cool down times)

If you run the engine with the MAF sensor plug disconnected then it will run at a default setting which is close to where is should be so if the engine then runs well you know its the sensor. If it doesn't make any difference then I would be looking elsewhere.....possibly turbo variable vanes gummed up with carbon is a popular one for these symptoms

If you have the security code then this should be all you need to input into the unit to get it working once you have changed the battery

Is the switch actually broken (does if feel floppy or is there something clicking when you press it) otherwise could it be the connections or wiring?

Thanks for letting us know the outcome, sometimes brute force and ignorance is the only way forwards 🙂

Seems like these errors relate to coding issues and/or CanBus communication errors. You may have to dig a lot deeper with some more serious diagnostic equipment to come up with more information. However, if the battery condition is poor and the charge level low then this could result in the Power Steering fault you describe, maybe replacing the battery if needed will resolve this issue

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How did you get on with removing the mirror cap?

Did you get this problem resolved yet?

only other thing it can be is the wiring to either the coil or the injector Inspect the wiring and the plugs onto each component for security, damage or corrosion Alternatively, see if swapping the components to another cylinder puts the fault onto that cylinder instead

Try this link for eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=vauxhall+grandland+raised+boot+floor+cover&_sacat=131090

Sounds like a very rare car indeed and hindsight is a wonderful thing (i wished i had kept half the cars I owned over the years). Obviously the Police force then went over to Ford cars for cost reasons I would imagine. I think the 2.6 was the European 'Opel' engine range but would have been more tuneable than the 3.0 litre possibly?

You could get a specialist pipe company (such as Hyphose) to make one up (usually a huge amount cheaper than the dealer)

Let us know how it all goes Nathan

The timing chain wouldn't necessarily need replacement if it has had regular oil changes and is not making any rattling noises on start up or when running

Immediate thoughts are there is a short circuit somewhere, either wiring going to the Throttle Actuator or the assembly itself. Inspect the wiring and plug to the unit and then ensure that the actuator is moving freely (may be seized hence the buzzing noise)

Try this company. https://catman.co.uk/

The trouble with cooling systems is that once you fix a leak the pressure then goes to the next weakest point so potentially it could have gone within the engine (you don't state whether petrol or diesel engine - different tests for each one to determine if engine is leaking internally). I would definitely start with replacing the Coolant Pressure Cap as if this is weak then the pressure drops and can lead to higher temperatures which boil off the coolant and also to allow air to enter the cooling system. Very cheap and easy part to replace to start with the diagnostic process. From there I would go with a pressure test to see if the pressure drops within the system and also to see if it is leaking externally under pressure. After that then it is a case of internal engine investigation but even then this can be done without too much dismantling of components

It is quite ambiguous as the answers I have found state between 60k to 100k miles but they all do state 5 years as the key time to change the cambelt

Hi Eric.....welcome to the Club You are more than welcome to dive into answering any questions you feel like responding to, especially any electronics related topics. Good to have you onboard!

I like the Combo diesel and as long as its maintain properly (like any car really) then it shouldn't give you problems