Vauxhall Owners Club

If you are trickle charging then leave the leads connected if it is a smart-charger / battery conditioner. If it is an old trickle charger then I would be tempted to leave the terminals off if leaving the car for a long length of time. ECU's relearn running conditions by running certain checks on start up and adjusting the electronic parameters accordingly, something that is done in the background on every start up and you wouldn't know its going on unless it flags up an error. Sometimes, the systems 'fall over themselves' with bad (historic) information being stored and this is when you need to hard-reset the system so it can relearn the correct settings. However, most systems should relearn but sometimes you would need specialist kit to force the system to relearn some information to run from and in which case a local garage should have kit to resolve these issues

If the car is a 4WD then it could be the rear differential running on hard surface and they tend to make a noise with the transmission driveshaft winding up.....on Honda CRV this is a sign that the rear diff oil needs changing and it cures it (until the next change time is due)

That is an exceptionally good MPG Andy, especially given the engine size and automatic transmission....Vauxhall certainly got the combination just right to return such a high MPG

Hi....welcome to the Club ...and welcome back to the wonderful world of Vauxhall Fine looking Corsa, looks very clean ( for the moment ) Good to have you onboard!

Not sure whether you have now managed to sort the issue? I would have checked the fuel and spark situation and see what was dropping out and when. (Live Data should give an indication of this) It could be something as simple as the fuel / system relay which is failing when getting hot. The garage should really remove any parts that were fitted in error as this is not the way to correctly diagnose (although the crank sensor is the first component I would have suspected). Also, I believe your engine should have a Camshaft sensor which can also fail the same as the Crankshaft sensor.

You could get some made up from a Hydraulic Pipe specialist, usually very cheap to have made

You can get some made up from a Hydraulic Pipe repair specialists, plenty of them around as Plant equipment use them on a regular basis. Also, very cheap to get pipes made up rather than paying dealership prices

Maybe you could source some HID headlamps and swap them out but you would need complete setup with Ballasts as well as connectors with some wiring to complete the conversion

Plenty of suppliers of stainless systems on eBay and they will make it to your requirements (sound, tailpipes, etc)

You're welcome to place an advert in the For Sale section of this forum Best to include a photo of the bars

That engine was used extensively over the Vauxhall range so should be plenty out there for sale. Not sure what else would fit in the hole but sure that most engines would but issue with getting it to run with current electronics fitted to the car if vastly different from original

I would definitely start with the battery from the terminals (clean and tight) to the leads, especially all earth leads are intact and clean as these are often overlooked. After that, with the battery on trickle charge I would let the control units relearn their parameters and then try it after that.

It shouldn't matter that its not a genuine Vauxhall part but it has to be the same specification to work properly Check also that the side repeaters are working properly as well as this could cause the fast flashing issue

Not sure exactly but I would imagine there would be some aftermarket parts available for the VXR vauxhall range if you could measure the length and diameter and contact some GM tuning companies to see if compatible with any other models

You could look for parts for the Suzuki Wagon R from the same era as it is the same car underneath

Share some pics of your Meriva if you want?

The Ethanol burns a bit hotter which would help to keep the engine clean but it also leads to slightly less MPG which along with the higher cost of fuel is leading us to be under the illusion that we are not getting much to the gallon as before

Hi Jamie....welcome to the Club Certainly looks a good condition car It would definitely be worth checking the cambelt has been done and all servicing has been carried out accordingly then it should go on for many years with no issues Good to have you onboard!

Hi Michael....welcome to the Club You are welcome to place an advert in the For Sale section of this forum Hopefully you should find an enthusiastic buyer soon

Hi John, welcome to the Club Definitely the old Vauxhalls are the most reliable and apart from rust have known them to go onto several hundred thousands of miles with very little issue Good to have you onboard!

Hi....welcome to the Club It seems that new exhaust systems are becoming hard to get hold of nowadays Always best bet to start looking on eBay as you can see availability and price comparisons

Firstly, check your brake fluid level as the warning light looks similar and then see if there is too much slack on the handbrake lever (e.g. floppy at rest and lots of movement before it gets to the first ratchet click)....if so, then top up the fluid and investigate why it has gone down (could be worn brake pads) and then adjust the handbrake lever (which could also be associated with worn pads) Let us know how you get on with it

I don't think there should be an issue with fitting the correct LED bulbs, try another (reputable - not Chinese) bulbs and see if they work

It sounds like the tyres may have been swapped around recently and some may be slightly below pressure. Try inflating all tyres to slightly above the recommended pressure (you can always let some out later if required) and go for a drive to see if that makes any difference. If a low tyre pressure has been registered then the headlamp alignment (via the suspension sensors) would recognise a slight deviation in vehicle height on one side, e.g. if the car has been driven on a flat tyre or sat in a driveway/forecourt with a flat tyre for a while)

Sounds like the fluid is leaking past the seals in the master cylinder (like internal bleeding so it doesn't leak out but the pressure just drops as fluid leaking between the seals) I would be tempted to install a repair kit (seals, etc) in the master cylinder as they are rebuildable from memory A very easy job to do just ensure you soak the new seals in fresh brake fluid overnight and try to clean up the bore first