Vauxhall Owners Club

Either would do fine for this country

It could be a fault with the switch, one of the calipers or even the pads sticking in the carrier brackets. Also, ensure that the EPB has been calibrated when the pads were replaced and retracting the piston, if not then this may also be the problem

Nice to keep such memorabilia as it will always go up in value as the years go by I have quite a collection of automobilia and wouldn't throw any of it away (as most people do)

Depends on how they have been treated. ....regular oil changes, allowing the turbo to cool down after a long motorway run, allowing the engine to warm up slowly without excessive turbo boost. All things considered there is no reason to believe that a turbo could not last as long as the car itself

I will move this post to the For Sale section of the forums and sure there will be some members who will be after some parts

Hi Jason.....welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

A steering column may fix the issue but it would cost a lot and if you can put up with it for a while longer then may be the best bet If the issue is with the electric power steering intermittently working on start up but having to start a couple of times for it so start working then this is usually battery related and a better quality or more powerful battery tends to resolve the issue

You could try to argue this with the dealership but doubt you'll get far. Timing chains tend to break across a whole range of vehicles and although they should be lifetime (e.g. 100k miles which used to be a vehicle lifespan) they aren't that durable

Could be a slight exhaust leak in or around the exhaust manifold, downpipe or catalytic converter area which would be drawing air and causing this code

It should be programmed if rebuilt to fit straight back on, but not sure if it is a replacement one from another car....may need recoding

Ebay would be my preferred choice to buy most parts especially older model parts

Oh crikey, that's very unfortunate as you had just bought the car. Luckily the sacrificial rocker arms saved you from having to remove the head assembly. Not sure of the exhaust temperatures though but may be unburnt fuel and oil sitting in the cylinders. Maybe keep an eye on it and it should decrease Alternatively, the oil may be coming through from the turbo and if you believe it is damaged then I would replace it if cheap enough

Well that doesn't surprise me coming from a dealership as the brakes should not be seized due to under-breaking. It is more likely that the pads have seized in the caliper carrier assembly due to having no anti-seize compound being applied when fitting the pads. It should be a simple job to remove the pads, apply some anti-seize (copperslip or similar) and refit The discs or even the pads should not need replacing at that mileage though Let us know how you get on with it all

Crikey, may have to damage the cap to remove and the new one should go back nicely if no damage to the housing has occurred

Usually they just pull off if you can get your fingernails behind or other use a plastic blade to get behind the cover

Tough one to value but if you could upload some photos on here and maybe place a For Sale advert in the forum section then this may provoke some responses with a rough valuation Overall, it depends on the condition of the car so photos would be helpful

Superb news Andy and well done for keeping the old girl on the road.....here's to another year of trouble-free motoring

Job well done Andy !

Hi Jagman....welcome to the Club

Hi Chris....welcome to the Club

Hi Jasper ....welcome to the Club

Hi Roger......welcome to the Club I used to own a fair few Rovers as well and I have to say they were amongst the best cars I ever owned (even owned an MG Rover garage so I would say they were the best I guess). The Astras and the M3 were all cars of an era and they very rarely went wrong, although they probably did rust badly. As with any car, Insignia included there are good ones and bad ones (we used to call them Friday - Monday cars) and as a mechanic I have seen cars come into my garage that hadn't had a spanner put to them for years and they don't go wrong. Others have been super maintained and they do go wrong constantly. Let us know how you get on with the Insignia on a regular basis so other members can see if they truly are reliable or otherwise. Good to have you onboard

Oh dear StellaDMN .....don't worry we all have these moments (blonde or otherwise) Its just good that its not a expensive fault and can simply be cured by switching off a button Sometimes the bus is the best and least troublesome option, also means you can shop and have a drink as well 🙂

All of the diagnosis seem plausible but only one is more than likely causing the fault. I would consider very carefully how much money you throw at this fault without determining the exact cause (considering that age of the car and the extent to which damage may have occurred) If the coolant has leaked into the ABS unit then quite possible it may also have traced up the wiring into the loom and this can be expensive to replace. So a rebuild of the ABS unit may only be half of the problem. Companies like BBA Reman are very good at diagnosing faulty units and offering an exchange one for a reasonable price

Not sure of which exact fuse to tap into but have done this job before on a Honda and measured the volts to see which fuse is live and if it goes off when the ignition is switched off....seemed to be completely different to the one I though it would be (fusebox cover description)....best to measure as you will definitely know which one is best.