Agree with FRONTERATECH as MOT testers tend to jot down information to then come back to the office and complete the online VOSA software and information can be incorrectly assigned to the wrong vehicle.
Happened to me when I bought my Harley and it had less miles than advertised and they worked out another bike had been MOT'd the same time and carried that miles and assigned to mine.
Thats completely unacceptable.....an old school mechanic can measure resistance of sensors to further confirm that a sensor is defective.
Sometimes, just contamination in a sensor connection or even damage to the reluctor ring (if seperate - e.g. not part of the wheel bearing) can cause fault codes and replacing the sensor is meaningless.
I would take the car to a good 'old school' independent garage who can diagnose the fault correctly
Have you had a compression check done?
Spark plugs, coil, leads, so many other things to also check
Also, not sure an ECU from a car that age needed programming apart from maybe the security system coding but not CanBus systems like nowadays
I believe the Motronic units were quite tuneable in their day but not sure if anyone still have remapping software for an older system?
The engine would almost certainly be able to take that minimal increase in revs without any serious damage (e.g. valve bounce, etc)
Wrong size seal, fitted slightly unevenly, wrong way round....could be many possibilities
However, if there is a groove worn on the end of the crankshaft that the seal sits on this can cause leaks
Hi Phoenix_Insignia ...welcome to the Club
As AndyR has already mentioned, please feel free to jump in with sharing any knowledge you may have to share
Good to have you onboard!
Hi Steve....welcome to the Clubto
I would advise taking the van on longer trips if you can as this can (and will over time) blocked the DPF and can be expensive to resolve.
Much cheaper taking it for a good long blast as often as possible.
MPG should then also improve and other issues like depleted battery charge from running short distances can also lead to other faults such as stop/start not working due to low battery power/charge condition.
I do wonder if the turbo is leaking past the shaft when it gets hot and under load?
You should source where it is ingesting the oil as this can also damage the DPF and lead to extra costs
Your faults are predominantly as a result of the battery.
Have a new one fitted and more than likely the faults will disappear.
Electronic Steering faults come about if the battery condition is low and flags an issue
ESC is also a result of low battery voltage
The engine has a timing chain, which could be the source of the rattle.
If the engine has done high miles then it could be worn.
Alternatively, keep doing oil and filter changes (more frequently than normal) to ensure fresh oil is getting to (and staying) in right places.
You could try something like Slick50 if it is still available to buy to ensure the tensioner and chain is lubricated at all times.
Good quality oil of the correct grade and specs (e.g. API spec) and an Original Equipment (OE) specification filter is used as this will make a difference