Vauxhall Owners Club

have a great Christmas Andy and thanks for all your help in the forums this year Cheers, Trevor

That makes two of us then - but what I find strange is that I am now the same age as old people :-)

I know there are bluetooth ones so saves running wires through the car If you find any wires that are loose in the tailgate or bumper areas then that may be already there to retrofit an OE reverse camera

Lol....I know what you mean but I bought a Haynes manual in electronic format and printed the pages out that I needed at the time. They might do a deal for both vehicle manuals

well at least you'll get practice removing bumper and other panels to gain access to the radiator

I guess as long as it is still running fine and its purely maintenance tasks then it should be straightforward for a skilled mechanic to carry this out. Maybe even with the engine in situ - have you considered a mobile mechanic who can work on it a your premises...may be cheaper as well?

Please let us know how you get on with it and if you find an easier way to access it.

It may be easier to remove the front bumper as its not that hard to take off. Just make sure you have a blanket on the floor in front so the paint doesn't get marked if you drop it.

I would say it is not unrelated as the aux belt will be turning the alternator pulley which in turn charges the battery so its a knock on effect - you will need to ensure the charging system is working properly before looking at any other faults

well at least you have a couple of options now. Good luck with it all and let us know how you get on with it

I would say that unless it is excessively smoking and it is clearly engine oil being burnt (oily exhaust pipe at the tail end) and the oil level is dropping then it may be a case of running it in until the rings bed in. Ensure that it is running the correct grade of oil and also run it on Supreme fuel which does make a difference.

It sounds like the system needs a reset at the battery, If it has recently been replaced then it may need coding with the new battery voltage which can usually be done with a half decent scan tool.

If it were me I would concentrate on getting the lamp working rather than replacing the headlamp - it may be due to water ingress which has caused corrosion but the headlamp didn't fail on beam deflection so the reflector must be okay. The position lamp should be able to be replaced even if you had to run external wires to the bulb as an interim to get it working for the MOT test.

maybe individual seals are available but otherwise if it is water ingress into the box then maybe silicon would be best to seal it - probably more effective and cheaper than new seals

Hi @JayBee Welcome to the club Good to have you onboard !

I would look on eBay to see if there are any available https://www.vauxhallownersclub.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=system&controller=redirect&do=advertisement&ad=14&key=bf150e77c2c9100d0b9bba1b6bec636361396ad8842ba5936721c270c2221ece

Hi....welcome to the Club some cars are going to be a pain from the beginning (my hate is VW) and are plagued with problems. sometimes you get a good one and sometimes a bad one (Friday - Monday cars). Good to have you onboard and hope you can resolve some of the issues

I'm going on a hunch that the battery may not be up to the job....had similar on an Alfa Romeo and it was a choice between replacing the battery (which the existing one was good enough to run the car) or sit there for a while once the engine had started allowing the battery to recover slightly. See if it does the same thing, rather than turning the steering just let it sit there to see if that still works

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Using a Smoke Generator to fill the car with smoke and see from where it is coming out of the car - and there is your leak :-) Ebay Link

Have you checked all wiring to all sensors as a break in a wiring could cause this issue - see if it happens when the engine is running and you 'wiggle' the wires going to sensors and actuators

I think the first move is to see where you have power going up to the lighter sockets. Using a multimeter or test lamp see voltage what you are getting at the sockets and work your way back through the electrical system from there to establish if there is a break in the circuit somewhere

I can see what you are up against as so much conflicting information out there on the type of autoboxes that are available. If it were me I would clean the exterior of the areas I would be working in (e.g. bottom and side of the box. Warm the engine up but not too hot as the fluid could scold when being drained. With a drain tray underneath let the fluid drain into it and try not to lose any as you will have to measure the quantity of old fluid. If there haven't been any leaks then what comes out is what should be in there. Ensure you have plenty of fluid to fill the box and top up over the next few days. If you remove the sump or side cover then fit a new filter and gasket(s) and see how it goes after that. Also examine the fluid for colour and particles (metal, fibre, etc) and if it smells of burnt toast then the fluid has been heated by wear on the clutch plates.

sorry, no I don't know but it would certainly worth trying them up for size if you could find the doors

Hi and welcome to the Club You can pick away the brains but not sure you'll find much 😄 Good to have you onboard!