Could also be an adjustment required on the gearshift mechanism which has to be in Park to allow the key to turn back far enough to be removed
Try wiggling the gearshift to see if it makes it easier to remove the key
Sorry, misread your post....thought it said 'front locks'
Its possible but not sure....again if a scrapyard has the parts you can take measurements or offer it up....sometimes the manufacture won't change much metalwork to facelift a new version just superficial plastics...so certainly worth a punt and time in research
You could get one made by Samco or other companies offering silicon hoses
Any colour and also length, bends, etc
https://samcosport.com/
Also, check out Demon Tweeks as they do hoses
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=hose
Yes that is correct and the earth pulses the injector
Cannot remember exact voltage but think (distant memory) that it is battery voltage (12 volts upwards)
It could be a vaccum leak in the engine, defective clutch springs or Dual Mass Flywheel worn, engine mounts....so many things it could be so worth dropping into a garage for them to diagnose
Usually water collects in the scuttle panel area below the windscreen and accessed from the engine bay.
If you have a sunroof then sometimes the water can travel down into the area you describe where it should drain out but if the drains are blocked then this may be the reason
Maybe the pads are sticking in the carrier - best to remove pads and see that they are free to slide sideways, if they are seized then they will need cleaning up (sometimes have too much paint on them) and copperslip to ensure they don't stick in the future
You should be able to use one of these to resolve the issue - Towing Can Bus Relay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171352163243?epid=11007713547&itmmeta=01HWWPERXZF1KG9K4MMBZW01YD&hash=item27e56283ab:g:tuQAAOSwzkVfaWEL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4Kqtbspe84444phqUhsdAq3QpdgWNB3L8frnK7WLGqNzDdVMgtxn4IWda%2B7g20VnVd5%2Fg8HVygAtaK5iFwTJOqJKZgpVjgDaIF9Y3eVJAVYadyUezXyC%2Br2cB98w3syU7Y5fqQAMkqYOc3Ppr%2BISC8Fq5X7vxhCeKWRdOVBJ%2Fd6L5GBYEFr0llLDqnt5kFVwBHay7xbNibCCSIDNOAT%2FqYPGC%2FUjUPaQ3H1GSvp3QSqJVtC7X27ENVFrleprNXhW5m95407hIIhfMiwmAWPY1f7dYabg8RlJwmbP2Tynk3SR|tkp%3ABFBMjI-7ludj
The vacuum kit looks like it should do the job nicely and at least you'll know there is no air left in the system.
Check also the thermostat is not stuck closed but you should find that out if you can measure the temperatures before and after the stat with an infrared temp gun (very useful tool for many other jobs on a car - misfire, sticking brakes, etc)
Let us know how you get on with it
Sounds like something is obstructing the boot from fully closing and is locked in this position.
Is there anyway of accessing the boot from inside the vehicle or even a pullcord somewhere on the rear bulkhead/seat area?
It does sound like turbo bearings have gone and the last thing you want is for the engine to be inducing oil through the turbo - can lead to a runaway engine!
If they can guarantee their diagnosis of the turbo being defective then unfortunately it's a case of biting the bullet and getting it done
Sounds like you have an air lock in the cooling system.
You'll need to work out where the air is (cool to touch when engine is at running temperature) and bleed it out