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  1. I had my egr valve with restrictor plates on and didn’t make much difference, so last weekend I set to and put a blanking plate, which I made myself on the exhaust manifold, removed the egr cooler and bent some 15mm copper pipe to go in its place. On the egr valve I put another blanking plate on there until I can afford to get it mapped out. What a difference my 1.9 cdti 150 bhp was flying, then I put a pipercross race air filter in and whoosh she was away again, it no longer feels like I am constantly driving into a head wind, the engine sounds happy and has instant power no lag, and no smoke at all on startup, now and again she still puffs out some blue smoke which it has always done but I think it must be the dpf needs a clean. My car now is like a rocket ship, she is an 08 model Vectra c.
    3 points
  2. Just bought a 2015 Zafira Tourer SRI CDTi Bit of a come down from a 3.5 V6 Nissan Elgrand, but needs must and all that. Hoping to find decent recommendations for parts, repairs that a monkey can manage themselves etc. First job once car is delivered is replacing a cracked front grille (black bit only). Hopefully do-able on a DIY basis....
    2 points
  3. Hey Vauxhall Corsa owners, I recently faced a frustrating issue with my Corsa's clutch pedal - it wasn't returning fully. After taking it to a garage, I learned that a little white clip on the pedal had snapped. The repair cost was almost £1000, as Vauxhall only offers a full pedal box replacement for around £600. I decided to take matters into my own hands. I designed and made my own version of the clip, and it works great - it's even stronger than the original. I've listed them on eBay if anyone else is facing the same problem. I've spent a lot of time designing, testing, and improving this part, and I've sold quite a few, even to some Vauxhall garages. However, someone bought one from me and tried to copy it. After a few light tests, it snapped. So, please use my link for an original. I'm posting this on a Vauxhall forum to let people know that I've made this part and it's available if they need it. I understand the frustration of dealing with a faulty clutch pedal, and I hope this solution can help others too. If you're interested, check out the link below. Thanks for reading, and I hope this helps someone out there! Vauxhall Corsa E Clutch Pedal Spring Retaining Clip | eBay
    2 points
  4. Hi....welcome to the Club I used to have a 73 Sedan de Ville.....such a huge car but not so by todays standards with the size of some cars on the road Good to have you onboard!
    2 points
  5. Hi everyone and thank you for allowing me to join. I have been the proud owner of a astra J 1.7cdti sports tourer, yes she has high milage but wow what a car so comfy in the 1st 4 months of owning her I did 10,000miles I just can't keep out. No exactly the most economical but she's mine and I love my car to bits. Keep up the good work guys and gals.
    2 points
  6. For sale is my mk3 Vauxhall cavalier GLS. 2L automatic petrol. The car is fantastic, it’s out of MOT but will be good to a new home. It’s been in the family for 25 years and well maintained and serviced. Car has some signs of wear and tear which is expected for its age of 29 years. It drives spot on with plenty of power in the engine. Easily pulls away faster than other cars without trying! Gearbox is good as well. 4 speed automatic. Looking for £1000 but open to offers. V5, 2 keys and has fuel in it.
    2 points
  7. Hi there, cheers , been a very long time since I owned a vauxhall, back in the 90's lol was a cavalier 2.0 glsi or something like that, there was a, g ,s and I maybe an L lol from sitting in the cockpit on my new one they've definitely come a long way , it's a really nice comfy place to sit and love all the dash layout, drives nice and straight too,inside is spotless, looks new , only bad bits are ,the passenger side sill has a straight long dent about a foot long which I can correct myself when the weather is warmer , done body work before , drivers side mirror casing was broke, I've replaced that and I was able re use the mirror cap as that was fine and saved me spraying it lol, one back light has a tiny piece of the corner broke off so I'll replace that in the next week or so, once those things are done the body will look spotless too. Things I've done so far, mod wise, swapped all interior bulbs for white led, black/red seat covers to keep the upholstery clean, ordered some replacement headlight led's, will be doing a chrome delete around windows, prep and respray the alloys cuz there's a few little scuffs, going change glow plugs and filters too, don't know when they were last done, once all that's done I'll either leave it at that or see what else I could do, I do this with all my cars basically, I like get them to look spotless
    2 points
  8. This is what I'm sure my wife is now chanting in her head after I finally sold my Ford Focus and bought a 2012 Astra GTC in the Yellow that seems to attract all of the bugs. I've finally joined her and her family in owning my first Vauxhall! Hello new Vauxhall fam.
    2 points
  9. It is definitely a car that will stand out in a crowd. It looks longer, and sleaker.
    2 points
  10. Hi all I'm a newbe to this but I do have a couple of questions for you all but I will do all this tomorrow as it's my day off
    2 points
  11. Vauxhall Astra, Opel Kadett & Vauxhall Belmont full service manual (microfiche) 1990 These microfiches contain the full workshop service instructions for the Vauxhall Astra and related models from 1990. My late father got them when he owned a Mk 2 Astra in 1990. Rather than just chuck them I thought I'd check to see if anyone could make good use of them... an invaluable resource if you're embarking on a restoration project or just keeping one on the road! He also had a Carlton at the same time so I'll be putting a similar post in that group... The microfiches are marked "08/90" (presumably August 1990) and "6th Revised Edition". They were bought with an H-reg vehicle so that aligns perfectly. The document identifier seems to be TSD-1448/6-GB and the "article number" is 93133. There are four microfiches in total. All are in excellent condition (they were only ever used in a DIY context and never in a commercial garage) and are still in the original Opel branded envelope. The four microfiches contain: I Sections A to H II Section J (OHC petrol & CIH petrol engines) III Section J (DOHC petrol and OHC diesel engines) IV Sections K to R The section headings are: A Maintenance, body and chassis sheet metal parts B Paint C Body equipment D Heating, ventilation and air conditioning E Frame, front wheel suspension, wheels and tyres F Rear axle and rear wheel suspension [G is omitted] H Brakes [I is omitted] J Engine and engine aggregates K Clutch and transmission L Fuel and exhaust system M Steering N Electrical equipment and instruments [O to Q are omitted] R Optional equipment and accessories Microfiche readers are readily available at relatively low cost on eBay and there seem to be people that offer a microfiche-to-PDF transcription service as well.
    2 points
  12. Hello friends! Not only am I new here, but I am also pretty new to Vauxhalls Just wanted to warn you all up front, because I'm probably gonna have some questions...
    2 points
  13. Part 4 of my nova saloon road race build. https://youtube.com/watch?v=zANHgX1-QDI&feature=share9
    2 points
  14. Hi I'm new I have a vauxhall cavalier Sri 16v redtop Thanks for letting me join
    2 points
  15. Hi, thanks for allowing me to join your club. I am a retired electronics lecturer from Ashington in Northumberland. I look forward to reading some good posts and also submitting some.
    2 points
  16. Thanks yes, we'll see, won't we... in my defence, Your Honour, I would also say that I only do 5 or 6000 miles a year now, and drive in a pretty relaxed fashion, so mine may have a better than average chance.
    2 points
  17. Hi all. Just bought my Astra J Gtc VXR 2013. Had a 81 kaddett, 96 astra, 00 astra. A 08 astra and went for the big girl this time. I always join a club for advise and tips. Look forward to been on here. Thanks for having me.
    2 points
  18. Hi All, especially Westcliff67 with the roof problem. I'd sent off my ECU to be tested, assuming that was the problem as I'd sourced a new boot lock solenoid of the right model (very hard to come by). Having changed that, it made no difference, so I thought it must be the ECU. That came back, tested, no faults (a reasonable charge for testing). Having used my OPCOM tester again, it still showed the same fault code B1010-0 Invalid State. I wondered where to go from there, but, the ECU tester had sent me a roof reset procedure, which I hadn't seen anywhere else. Apparently, the ECU might not recognise the current position of your roof because it failed in a different position. I imagine, you could have the same problem changing the ECU as the roof from the car it was taken from, could have been in a different position. Manually wind the roof and fold it back into the open position and let the lid cover drop. (I couldn't get my roof lid to lock down completely, even after trying a couple of times, so decided to continue). Use the OPCOM device to erase the code. This I had done before, but all with the roof in the closed position. Now the code erased and didn't return. The roof worked! I was so surprised not to hear the beeping. I tried the roof a few times and it's fine. I need to top up the hydraulic oil a bit. The instructions go on to say that 'If the fault code does not erase after this procedure has been followed, then all of the position switches and the release lever switches will need to be tested for correct function, as this will indicate one of the switches is in an incorrect open or closed position'. Now, the car works as it should. It could do with a respray to freshen it up, but I think that will cost too much. I'm thinking of getting it wrapped, but all of the companies that I have contacted, have not replied. I can only think the model is too old to be on their vinyl computer.
    2 points
  19. 2 points
  20. Hi all. I joined the forum just over a month ago but was at work (on a ship) so I didn't have a chance to get a pic of the car the Mrs had bought while I was away. But now I'm home, here's a couple of pics. I've got an 04 Astra 1.7cdti SRi (the 100bhp model). Slightly underpowered compared to my previous car that shat itself on its MOT (I had a Ford C-Max 2.0tdci that made 140bhp roughly, but the mot failure would have coated about 2k to fix). I'm liking the car. It doesn't have the space like the previous car, but that's understandable considering my previous car was an MPV. This is the first Vauxhall I've owned. But my dad has had many Vauxhall's in my childhood (Senator, Carlton, Cavalier, Omega etc etc, he was a cabby). There are a few niggles with it though, are parts interchangeable between the early to late Astra H's? Many thanks if you've taken the time to read this! Jamie.
    2 points
  21. Hi all returning to the fold after a few years away. Picked up a Corsa burg and just getting back to the Vauxhall scene. Looking forward to it.
    2 points
  22. Hi and and thanks for the joining to you all. I don't have a Vauxhall at the moment but just selling my Caravan so will be looking for an Astra to replace my Jaguar. I ordered the First Mk1 in England in 1980 and it was great for 10 years really loved it. Then worked through a Magnum, Cavalier, Frontera, Carlton & 2 Omega estates. So hoping to pick up some reports through you Guys on Astras 11 - 16 ish. Peter PS that's farther in law and wife not me
    2 points
  23. I must admit that whilst my car runs just aswell with the newer E10 petrol, the fuel economy doesn't seem as good as the E5
    2 points
  24. Thanks Andy. Not too much covering to be honest. The battery was removed and cleaned externally so that I could tidy up the battery terminals. I covered the alternator with a bag throughout. When I was jet washing the underside of the bonnet and the tops of the inner wings, landing panel etc I also covered the whole engine with a black bag. I had the crossover off along with the tophat pipes at one point so that I could get in about the back of the engine. Any open pipes like the valve cover inlet/outlets and the coolant and air intakes were covered using good quality nylon gloves. They're very versatile and always a good fit ... cut fingers off to cover over smaller pipes and use whole gloves to cover over the larger ones(always at least two layers It was a sunny day when the job got done so when it was finished the bonnet was left open for everything to dry. Car's been out for a few runs and is ticking over nicely.
    2 points
  25. We have just added a Tigra to the household. Looked at several and ended up paying top dollar for an exceptional Opel Tigra with just 17K miles. I suspect it must be one of the best Tigras around.
    2 points
  26. I had difficulty finding out how to access the stalk switches. First release the steering wheel, lower it and pull it out telescopically. The wheel needs to be turned 90° left and right to get access to two screws. The top plastic cover can be prised off, starting by lifting the tabs covering the screws and levering upwards - see photo. (The top cover clips onto the bottom cover.) There is a third screw centrally underneath the lower cover. (6mm socket needed for all 3.) The separate cover over the ignition switch needs to be prised off and manoeuvred out. The stalk picture shows it half out with one locking-clip seen on top. The white connector on the PEC attaches the cable going up the stalk for the rear wiper control; remove it before unscrewing the PEC. The stalk switches connect to the Body Control Module located behind the glove box; I was relieved to find that it was not the problem! The 3 positions of the wiper switch, Intermittent, normal & fast are encoded with resistors on the PEC, they are decoded by the BCM which commands the wiper relays. Sadly I had already ordered a replacement stalk from Ebay before finding the corrosion. It may yet come in handy!
    2 points
  27. Thanks for the add. Just bought a Crossland X 1.2 turbo elite nav. Previously had a few Astras. 1.6 SRI diesel and a turbo petrol.
    1 point
  28. Hi folks, wondering if anyone knows of any companies that still make body kits for carltons. Been working on a project for a while, completed an engine swap, transmission change, suspension rework and much more. All I need now is the car to look the part with a body kit. Any advice or links would be greatly appreciated! Cheers!
    1 point
  29. A transmission that has been serviced should be fine. Depending on mileage then maybe factor in a fluid and filter change if one has not been carried out previously
    1 point
  30. Hi everyone. I am in need of mk3 cavalier Sri steel wheels. Preferably with tyres. 195/60/14 . Thanks
    1 point
  31. Hello everyone. Can anyone help me please I am after the drivers side door pocket as mine has a chunk broken out of it. The car is a 1983 mk1 facelift. 2.0gl auto many thanks Phil
    1 point
  32. Best to get it properly evacuated at a garage to save the environment and they can even reuse it to refill your A/C once you have carried out the work on it
    1 point
  33. Hi Mick, I would imagine that it all depends on their supplier, and availability of stock. Also having the weekend the day after putting it in the garage could cause a delay on deliveries. Hope you don't have to wait too long to get your car back. Regards Andy.
    1 point
  34. Thanks for the info. I will give them a try.
    1 point
  35. Hi, My name is Paulo and I drive a Vauxhall Corsa E (electric) 2021. It's my second Vauxhall, before I was driving a 2015 insignia Diesel. Glad to be a member.
    1 point
  36. Heavier car, bigger engine, roads being travelled, traffic, etc....so many variables but the Fiesta would be hard to beat for economy, regardless of the age of the car. It may be worth trying a different route if possible to see if faster / less occupied roads make a difference
    1 point
  37. Hi ok thanks for that I didn't know they made aircon pipes I'll get some quotes a d thanks again
    1 point
  38. I've got a 2011 CDTI. Tracked the squeal to the nearside rear wheel. I knew it wasn't wheel bearing or pad related because it was the same pitch regardless of wheel speed. And intermittent. I removed the brake pad carrier and shook it violently. There was the sound. Basically ( in my case ) the handbrake cable has a ball on the end that sits in a small bracket on the back of the Carrier. The ball is getting on a bit and showing signs of weathering along with the bracket, showing rust lines down the bracket. I greased the ball where it sits in the bracket ( because I had the car on axle stands with the handbrake off the ball had freedom to move slightly in its enclosure allowing enough space to let the grease get at it. Problem solved. I'll be honest, it'll probably be back again soon when the grease wears off but I reckon I'll just replace the handbrake cable and grease the new one on install. Some of you may have the same issue hope this helps.
    1 point
  39. Update on the silencer. Managed to find a new one on ebay for £45.00. Unfortunately it's not the clam shell that I originally had, as these seem to be quite scarce at the moment. So I got a cylindrical one that fits perfectly. So before it got too hot outside this morning, I've been and fitted it. Car now sounds nice and quiet again . She might get a service later when it cools down. We're sitting at 27°c at the moment here in Norfolk. Regards Andy.
    1 point
  40. Hi my zafira started sqealing if it had rained And then the belt came off Doesn't look damaged
    1 point
  41. Its not the A/c fan. And its still showing code 89. Coolant levels are all good, and the car isn't running hot, so brother-in-law is going to run it into a Vauxhall dealer to get them to have a look. I'll keep you posted of what the outcome is. Andy.
    1 point
  42. I got armrests last year from here last year for both front and back, in black rather than brown https://www.vauxhall-accessories.com/meriva-b-armrest-cocoa/
    1 point
  43. Front tyre pressures were 28psi back tyres 43psi . Had it a month so it was handed over under and overinflated. Kwik fit couldn't do tracking as the car isn't showing on the system . Seems to drive better now the pressures are correct.. thanks all for the help ..much appreciated
    1 point
  44. I did take a photo, I'll see if I can upload it. It certainly does show how well engineered they are. Got to sort out rear exhaust as its very blowy, and I think pass the gun gum stage. But other than that it's going well.
    1 point
  45. Hi jayjay, it might be worth getting the battery checked to see if its losing charge. If it is not, then it may well be the steering pump. Probably not something you'd want to hear this close to xmas though.
    1 point
  46. A friend mentioned that it could be a date it was quality controlled. But again, why would it have sat about so long before being fitted to the car?? One of those mysteries that will probably never get answered..
    1 point
  47. Hi I have a rear bumper with rubber insert brand new from vauxhall in 1985 for a cavalier mk1 never been out of box if you interested drop me a line thanks Adrian Shults
    1 point
  48. I had the "Service vehicle soon" message on the display. I measured the resistances of the four glowplug/pressure sensors (Between the centre connection and a convenient metal part of the engine.). Two were around 1.2 ohms, one read 3.6 ohms and one was open-circuit. I was horrified to find the asking price of the combined glowplug and pressure sensor was £120. I found a new OEM one on Ebay for £88.99. I replaced the open-circuit one and still got the "Service Vehicle soon" message. Not having a diagnostic tool, I could not verify if it was the glow or the pressure sensor or, indeed, anything else causing the warning. I bought another glowplug/pressure sensor and fitted it. After one more warning, the message disappeared. Job done. You do need a multimeter capable of giving reliable, accurate low-resistance measurements. I used "Copperslip" on the thread before screwing the new plugs in. I bought a 1/4" square-drive torque wrench on Ebay for £15.40. The settings were difficult to read and the markings on the rotating handle did not match the engravings on the barrel, making it very difficult to have any confidence at all of the actual setting. It is very dangerous to exert much more than 10 Newton metres torque either for removing or tightening down, as the top of the plug can be turned off leaving most still stuck in the cylinder. I was lucky, both mine unscrewed easily. (If you break one, think about ignoring it and relying on the other 3 plugs! Use penetrating oil and run the engine hot before attempting removal.) Another tip; the electrical connectors just pull off but are very stiff. Use a long thin screwdriver at the bottom of the plastic connector cover, twist and the connector pops up a few mm.
    1 point
  49. Update for the roof So I removed all the trim from inside the boot to get access to the Roof ECU, I replaced it with the one I got from Ebay from a known working car. I reset the roof positions and turn on, now I get 12 beeps instead of the 6 beeps from before the replacement. The only thing left to do replace the roof hydraulic pump. tune in soon for the next installment of Cabby Roof problems Cliff
    1 point
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