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Vauxhall Owners Club

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Posts posted by Vauxhall Owners Club

  1. Hi Peter.....welcome to the Club

    Always good to try to keep as many classics on the road as possible.
    The only thing I would say to be aware of on the Carltons is rust.....it creeps in and definitely worth Waxoyl it for the winter (even if storing it in a garage) and this should preserve it for many years

  2. If you are trickle charging then leave the leads connected if it is a smart-charger / battery conditioner. If it is an old trickle charger then I would be tempted to leave the terminals off if leaving the car for a long length of time.

    ECU's relearn running conditions by running certain checks on start up and adjusting the electronic parameters accordingly, something that is done in the background on every start up and you wouldn't know its going on unless it flags up an error.
    Sometimes, the systems 'fall over themselves' with bad (historic) information being stored and this is when you need to hard-reset the system so it can relearn the correct settings.

    However, most systems should relearn but sometimes you would need specialist kit to force the system to relearn some information to run from and in which case a local garage should have kit to resolve these issues

  3. If the car is a 4WD then it could be the rear differential running on hard surface and they tend to make a noise with the transmission driveshaft winding up.....on Honda CRV this is a sign that the rear diff oil needs changing and it cures it (until the next change time is due)

  4. Not sure whether you have now managed to sort the issue?

    I would have checked the fuel and spark situation and see what was dropping out and when. (Live Data should give an indication of this)
    It could be something as simple as the fuel / system relay which is failing when getting hot.

    The garage should really remove any parts that were fitted in error as this is not the way to correctly diagnose (although the crank sensor is the first component I would have suspected). Also, I believe your engine should have a Camshaft sensor which can also fail the same as the Crankshaft sensor.

     

  5. That engine was used extensively over the Vauxhall range so should be plenty out there for sale.
    Not sure what else would fit in the hole but sure that most engines would but issue with getting it to run with current electronics fitted to the car if vastly different from original

  6. I would definitely start with the battery from the terminals (clean and tight) to the leads, especially all earth leads are intact and clean as these are often overlooked.
    After that, with the battery on trickle charge I would let the control units relearn their parameters and then try it after that.

     

  7. It shouldn't matter that its not a genuine Vauxhall part but it has to be the same specification to work properly

    Check also that the side repeaters are working properly as well as this could cause the fast flashing issue

  8. Not sure exactly but I would imagine there would be some aftermarket parts available for the VXR vauxhall range if you could measure the length and diameter and contact some GM tuning companies to see if compatible with any other models

  9. On 8/21/2022 at 9:01 PM, AndyR said:

    I wonder if the E10 may have some sort of additive that clears out any carbon deposits, and that is the cause of the jerkyness. That could just be me thinking outside the box. 

    The Ethanol burns a bit hotter which would help to keep the engine clean but it also leads to slightly less MPG which along with the higher cost of fuel is leading us to be under the illusion that we are not getting much to the gallon as before

  10. Hi Jamie....welcome to the Club

    Certainly looks a good condition car

    It would definitely be worth checking the cambelt has been done and all servicing has been carried out accordingly then it should go on for many years with no issues

    Good to have you onboard!

  11. Hi John,  welcome to the Club

    Definitely the old Vauxhalls are the most reliable and apart from rust have known them to go onto several hundred thousands of miles with very little issue

    Good to have you onboard!

  12. Firstly, check your brake fluid level as the warning light looks similar and then see if there is too much slack on the handbrake lever (e.g. floppy at rest and lots of movement before it gets to the first ratchet click)....if so, then top up the fluid and investigate why it has gone down (could be worn brake pads) and then adjust the handbrake lever (which could also be associated with worn pads)

    Let us know how you get on with it

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