Hi Hangonrose ....welcome to the Forum

Sounds like you've got a great car there, worth keeping on top of the maintenance and I'm sure it will keep going for years.

Plenty of information in the Meriva section in these forums to give you an idea of common faults, etc

Good to have you onboard!

Hi Tricky .... welcome to the Forum

Keep us updated on the mods you are doing, would be interested to see how it turns out 

Good to have you onboard

Have you first tested the battery condition and charge? as this can cause the EPS fault if the voltage drops low, which can occur with this cold weather

Advisable to check this first and then replace the battery if necessary

Have you checked the side repeaters on the front wings or mirrors?

 

The first thing I would check is the Battery condition and charge, also check the Battery leads and terminals are in good condition and tight

After that I would look at the key fob as it looks to be damaged previously

Do you have another key fob for the car?

Maybe worth buying a cheap ELM327 scanner off eBay and link to your phone to pull up a fault code and go from there.

No chance of a slight blow on the exhaust system as this can flag a code of air leak?

Are the turbo variable vanes gummed up with carbon? if so then apply a cleaner and take for long fast drive which usually sorts it

Common causes include:
- Vacuum leaks
- Clogged or faulty Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF)
- Faulty PCV valve or other parts of PCV system
- Stuck open purge valve/solenoid
- Faulty oxygen sensor
- Improperly installed aftermarket intake
- Low fuel pressure
- Clogged-up catalytic converter
Read more: Catalytic Converter: problems, replacement options.

I would check the inlet manifold for any loose or cracked hoses and also any leaks, spray WD40 around areas that if drawn in the revs will increase stating that there is an air leak

Also check the exhaust system for leaks as this will also flag the code

Turbo variable vanes clogged with carbon possibly?

I'm sure it will get better when you start driving it

Bought an Alfa Romeo Mito 1.3 diesel and many of the faults that the car was bought with disappeared after putting a few decent motorway miles on it 🙂 

You could always try swapping the leads for the temp sensors to see if the fault switches to the other sensor so you will know which one is actually faulty

Also, you may want to consider that the turbo variable vanes are stuck closed/open with carbon build up through lack of use (e.g. lots of town driving will cause this)

Use some turbo cleaner and then give it a good blast to clear it through and clean up the turbo vanes - reputable product through eBay listed below:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290806726128?epid=1142727766&hash=item43b56e7df0:g:1qUAAOSwy5Ja7ItN&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4J7PHUCAdQCK4TBq3D9AysWmUCZp4cnGtkVgKvKMGw7nDq3b8DBMda6ZlriB0ap7Ncstf2JSk3%2Fm6%2B%2BxtRQUvFOI2BztgsK9r6ZoZAUtLNz3NENKQ%2FJAIDsrb7kLPlUbjNYXyGamZa4BoUpWZTAemiPB2rUScXgajP7%2BalOUsC9VawfE4T59Zp4WzwoIzqRr5tT1YaV7QRXapdBQrqDU9eqBq1m6NQX5gjyFUQOrUdIJc5RpwjLtcagZkFIhhJKgruhBV%2BuagdzsraSxmnEb2yNX%2Blw9tv3ZLa1rxxeJkUOL|tkp%3ABk9SR8b0wNKFYQ

 

Boost leak? Turbo Vanes sticking?  there are a few other possibilities to examine before replacing any parts but look for a split in a turbo boost hose first (usually makes a noise which is either a whistle or if in rubber sounds like a farting noise)

It may be better to go the metal valve route or even fitting a delete kit to remove the feature completely

Maybe a rebuild could be the way forward if you can obtain the parts needed. 

Only a strip down would reveal what has failed to make it seize

Hi....welcome to the Club

Fine looking VXR you have there and big plans ahead then

I would put it down to the fact that its probably being driven differently from the previous owner and just needs a constant clear out through spirited driving to clear out any carbon build up in the engine.
Also run some cleaner in the fuel system which may help the situation.

Let us know how it all progresses and congrats on a fine selection of other cars you have in your collection 🙂 

That sounds like a bad earth and the current is finding its way to another bulb
Also, another common issue is that there may be an incorrect bulb fitted somewhere else in the car and it is back-feeding the lighting circuit.

Check the bulbs are correct and check the earths!

More than likely EGR stuck open.....has the fault reappeared again yet?

usually the replacement sensors and valves sort this issue, would be good to ensure that the codes have been deleted from memory and also the oil quality has been reset - even an oil and filter change if it hasn't had one would help I'm sure?

Heavier car, bigger engine, roads being travelled, traffic, etc....so many variables but the Fiesta would be hard to beat for economy, regardless of the age of the car.

It may be worth trying a different route if possible to see if faster / less occupied roads make a difference

How have you got on with this issue?

Was it the Dual Mass Flywheel by any chance?

That sounds very strange indeed!  I have never heard of starter motors failing with this regularity, unless of course it is a stop/start and that can be switched off to preserve the starter motors

Any update on how its all going?

Here's a link to springs for Omega's and would say that a new set all round will bring the car back to somewhere near where it should be (ride height, comfort, etc)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=vauxhall+omega+suspension&_sacat=131090&rt=nc&Type=Coil%20Spring&_dcat=33579

Hi John

I would try eBay to see if there is anyone breaking an earlier model and has the ignition barrel and key

What is wrong with the original one you have?

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