Vauxhall Owners Club

Turbo variable vanes clogged with carbon possibly?

I'm sure it will get better when you start driving it Bought an Alfa Romeo Mito 1.3 diesel and many of the faults that the car was bought with disappeared after putting a few decent motorway miles on it

You could always try swapping the leads for the temp sensors to see if the fault switches to the other sensor so you will know which one is actually faulty Also, you may want to consider that the turbo variable vanes are stuck closed/open with carbon build up through lack of use (e.g. lots of town driving will cause this) Use some turbo cleaner and then give it a good blast to clear it through and clean up the turbo vanes - reputable product through eBay listed below: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290806726128?epid=1142727766&hash=item43b56e7df0:g:1qUAAOSwy5Ja7ItN&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4J7PHUCAdQCK4TBq3D9AysWmUCZp4cnGtkVgKvKMGw7nDq3b8DBMda6ZlriB0ap7Ncstf2JSk3%2Fm6%2B%2BxtRQUvFOI2BztgsK9r6ZoZAUtLNz3NENKQ%2FJAIDsrb7kLPlUbjNYXyGamZa4BoUpWZTAemiPB2rUScXgajP7%2BalOUsC9VawfE4T59Zp4WzwoIzqRr5tT1YaV7QRXapdBQrqDU9eqBq1m6NQX5gjyFUQOrUdIJc5RpwjLtcagZkFIhhJKgruhBV%2BuagdzsraSxmnEb2yNX%2Blw9tv3ZLa1rxxeJkUOL|tkp%3ABk9SR8b0wNKFYQ

Boost leak? Turbo Vanes sticking? there are a few other possibilities to examine before replacing any parts but look for a split in a turbo boost hose first (usually makes a noise which is either a whistle or if in rubber sounds like a farting noise)

It may be better to go the metal valve route or even fitting a delete kit to remove the feature completely

Maybe a rebuild could be the way forward if you can obtain the parts needed. Only a strip down would reveal what has failed to make it seize

Hi....welcome to the Club Fine looking VXR you have there and big plans ahead then I would put it down to the fact that its probably being driven differently from the previous owner and just needs a constant clear out through spirited driving to clear out any carbon build up in the engine. Also run some cleaner in the fuel system which may help the situation. Let us know how it all progresses and congrats on a fine selection of other cars you have in your collection

That sounds like a bad earth and the current is finding its way to another bulb Also, another common issue is that there may be an incorrect bulb fitted somewhere else in the car and it is back-feeding the lighting circuit. Check the bulbs are correct and check the earths!

More than likely EGR stuck open.....has the fault reappeared again yet?

usually the replacement sensors and valves sort this issue, would be good to ensure that the codes have been deleted from memory and also the oil quality has been reset - even an oil and filter change if it hasn't had one would help I'm sure?

Heavier car, bigger engine, roads being travelled, traffic, etc....so many variables but the Fiesta would be hard to beat for economy, regardless of the age of the car. It may be worth trying a different route if possible to see if faster / less occupied roads make a difference

How have you got on with this issue? Was it the Dual Mass Flywheel by any chance?

That sounds very strange indeed! I have never heard of starter motors failing with this regularity, unless of course it is a stop/start and that can be switched off to preserve the starter motors

Any update on how its all going?

Here's a link to springs for Omega's and would say that a new set all round will bring the car back to somewhere near where it should be (ride height, comfort, etc) https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=vauxhall+omega+suspension&_sacat=131090&rt=nc&Type=Coil%20Spring&_dcat=33579

Hi John I would try eBay to see if there is anyone breaking an earlier model and has the ignition barrel and key What is wrong with the original one you have?

Yes you are! 1First generation (1980–1984) 2Second generation (1984–1991) 3Third generation (1991–1998) 4Fourth generation (1998–2004) 5Fifth generation (2004–2010) 6Sixth generation (2009–2016) 7Seventh generation (2015–2021)

You could try fishing line behind the trims and this cuts through the adhesive tape and if you hit a resistance then this is probably a retaining clip/pin

You could bypass the microswitch but you would have to ensure the doors could be unlocked at any time (safety and MOT requirement for doors to be opened internally and externally)

Usually gear knobs either unscrew (anticlockwise) or pull directly upwards (but ensure your face is not directly above when doing this - been there before)

You could look at aftermarket wheels but beware of cheap copies coming through from China Alternatively, worth asking your local dealership what wheels they have listed for the Antara and at least you could see which ones would be available even if you bought secondhand Also, beware of buying one from a crash damaged car as they can sometimes be dangerous as deformed in the accident

Hi Gary....welcome to the Club

Hi Peter.....welcome to the Club Always good to try to keep as many classics on the road as possible. The only thing I would say to be aware of on the Carltons is rust.....it creeps in and definitely worth Waxoyl it for the winter (even if storing it in a garage) and this should preserve it for many years

If you are trickle charging then leave the leads connected if it is a smart-charger / battery conditioner. If it is an old trickle charger then I would be tempted to leave the terminals off if leaving the car for a long length of time. ECU's relearn running conditions by running certain checks on start up and adjusting the electronic parameters accordingly, something that is done in the background on every start up and you wouldn't know its going on unless it flags up an error. Sometimes, the systems 'fall over themselves' with bad (historic) information being stored and this is when you need to hard-reset the system so it can relearn the correct settings. However, most systems should relearn but sometimes you would need specialist kit to force the system to relearn some information to run from and in which case a local garage should have kit to resolve these issues

If the car is a 4WD then it could be the rear differential running on hard surface and they tend to make a noise with the transmission driveshaft winding up.....on Honda CRV this is a sign that the rear diff oil needs changing and it cures it (until the next change time is due)