HI John, welcome to the Club

Luckily Corsa mechanical and service parts are in abundance and at low cost so mechanically it won't take a lot to get up to scratch
Body panels and trim, well not sure but may find cheap parts new or otherwise secondhand parts may be suitable

Good luck with it all and let us know how you get on with it all

Yes a loose pressure cap means the coolant will boil at a lower temperature.

might get some info from here

https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/

Good luck with the resto....although they were pretty solid and had reliable engines back then

Hi...welcome to the Club

Fine looking Vauxhall, that part looks like the cover that goes on the underside of the dash / footwell area - either drivers or passenger side, not sure which exactly

Hi...welcome to the Club!

Good to have you onboard

It certainly would be a shame to scrap it but what makes you think it needs a head gasket?
Cambelt and waterpump are standard if it has reached the time and mileage though

Hi John....welcome to the Club

Not sure about the exact number of this model in the UK but you can look it up on 'how many left' website

Typical with non-OE parts from a dubious source, probably because it was cheap part to buy at the time

The white one is a Vauxhall Adam 'S' which is quite a sporty little car

Looks like you had nice weather on the day which is always a bonus 🙂

Thanks for posting up the photos and review!

I would contact a battery specialist company.....we have one down here (Bournemouth Battery Services)

I believe this fault has been discussed on these forums many years ago, so worth a search to see what you can find

What a truly stunning old car

Thank you for sharing the pics....you must really enjoy driving it, albeit very slowly by today's standards

Hi...welcome to the Club

Good to have you onboard!

Agree with FRONTERATECH as MOT testers tend to jot down information to then come back to the office and complete the online VOSA software and information can be incorrectly assigned to the wrong vehicle.
Happened to me when I bought my Harley and it had less miles than advertised and they worked out another bike had been MOT'd the same time and carried that miles and assigned to mine.

Thats completely unacceptable.....an old school mechanic can measure resistance of sensors to further confirm that a sensor is defective. 
Sometimes, just contamination in a sensor connection or even damage to the reluctor ring (if seperate - e.g. not part of the wheel bearing) can cause fault codes and replacing the sensor is meaningless.

I would take the car to a good 'old school' independent garage who can diagnose the fault correctly

Have you had a compression check done?

Spark plugs, coil, leads, so many other things to also check

Also, not sure an ECU from a car that age needed programming apart from maybe the security system coding but not CanBus systems like nowadays

I believe the Motronic units were quite tuneable in their day but not sure if anyone still have remapping software for an older system?
The engine would almost certainly be able to take that minimal increase in revs without any serious damage (e.g. valve bounce, etc)

Wrong size seal, fitted slightly unevenly, wrong way round....could be many possibilities

However, if there is a groove worn on the end of the crankshaft that the seal sits on this can cause leaks

Hi keith ticer ...welcome to the Club

Crikey that's an old and rare car.....would love to see some pics of it

Good to have you onboard !

Hi Phoenix_Insignia ...welcome to the Club

As AndyR has already mentioned, please feel free to jump in with sharing any knowledge you may have to share

Good to have you onboard!

Hi Steve....welcome to the Clubto

I would advise taking the van on longer trips if you can as this can (and will over time) blocked the DPF and can be expensive to resolve.
Much cheaper taking it for a good long blast as often as possible.

MPG should then also improve and other issues like depleted battery charge from running short distances can also lead to other faults such as stop/start not working due to low battery power/charge condition.

Yep, thats what I found....maybe a trip to SpecSavers then 🙂

 

Yes, can see what you mean.....maybe the owner had it sprayed black (possibly)?

Did it plug into anything as in a sensor - do you have a photo of the connection?

I do wonder if the turbo is leaking past the shaft when it gets hot and under load?

You should source where it is ingesting the oil as this can also damage the DPF and lead to extra costs