No, it would have to be a complete axle set at the same time for the handling not to be compromised
Powerflex are the best ones to purchase from experience but may cost more 

I would put money on it being the turbocharger variable vanes sticking due to excessive carbon deposits

Try using a cleaner to remove the carbon - links below:
Wynns
JLM
Revive

Could also be an adjustment required on the gearshift mechanism which has to be in Park to allow the key to turn back far enough to be removed

Try wiggling the gearshift to see if it makes it easier to remove the key

On 3/28/2024 at 7:59 PM, PETER.HAROLD said:

I’m just wondering if the front end off the mk5 can be bolted to the mk4  Astra van 1.7 cdti  

Sorry, misread your post....thought it said 'front locks'

Its possible but not sure....again if a scrapyard has the parts you can take measurements or offer it up....sometimes the manufacture won't change much metalwork to facelift a new version just superficial plastics...so certainly worth a punt and time in research

Yep I would imagine it has done, so cylinder head off to survey the damage

Vauxhall parts dealer should be able to print out an exploded diagram of the heater control parts

Type your registration into EuroCarParts website and comes up with belt and not chain

https://www.eurocarparts.com/timing-belt

On 5/12/2024 at 2:28 PM, Rob 20seh said:

Hi all, I found a brand new end cap from an opel dealer in Finland!! 

Wow, that's a great find....feel free to post the link to them if you want

You could get one made by Samco or other companies offering silicon hoses
Any colour and also length, bends, etc

https://samcosport.com/

Also, check out Demon Tweeks as they do hoses
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=hose

Yes that is correct and the earth pulses the injector
Cannot remember exact voltage but think (distant memory) that it is battery voltage (12 volts upwards)

Worth checking the heater resistor pack or the motor ....have had both parts defective on Vauxhalls before and cheap enough for parts

It could be a vaccum leak in the engine, defective clutch springs or Dual Mass Flywheel worn, engine mounts....so many things it could be so worth dropping into a garage for them to diagnose

Usually water collects in the scuttle panel area below the windscreen and accessed from the engine bay.
If you have a sunroof then sometimes the water can travel down into the area you describe where it should drain out but if the drains are blocked then this may be the reason

Best bet is to ask the dealer as have come across forum members who have done the same thing and dealer price was quite reasonable

It could be a faulty flap but also air in the heater matrix that would need bleeding out

How you getting on with it?

Maybe the pads are sticking in the carrier  -  best to remove pads and see that they are free to slide sideways, if they are seized then they will need cleaning up (sometimes have too much paint on them) and copperslip to ensure they don't stick in the future

Thanks for updating with the cause and the solution...sometimes the simplest things can cause problems like this

Just need to keep an eye on it to see that it continues circulating

Thanks for letting us know the outcome

You should be able to use one of these to resolve the issue - Towing Can Bus Relay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171352163243?epid=11007713547&itmmeta=01HWWPERXZF1KG9K4MMBZW01YD&hash=item27e56283ab:g:tuQAAOSwzkVfaWEL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4Kqtbspe84444phqUhsdAq3QpdgWNB3L8frnK7WLGqNzDdVMgtxn4IWda%2B7g20VnVd5%2Fg8HVygAtaK5iFwTJOqJKZgpVjgDaIF9Y3eVJAVYadyUezXyC%2Br2cB98w3syU7Y5fqQAMkqYOc3Ppr%2BISC8Fq5X7vxhCeKWRdOVBJ%2Fd6L5GBYEFr0llLDqnt5kFVwBHay7xbNibCCSIDNOAT%2FqYPGC%2FUjUPaQ3H1GSvp3QSqJVtC7X27ENVFrleprNXhW5m95407hIIhfMiwmAWPY1f7dYabg8RlJwmbP2Tynk3SR|tkp%3ABFBMjI-7ludj

Hi....welcome to the Club

Good to have you onboard!

The vacuum kit looks like it should do the job nicely and at least you'll know there is no air left in the system.
Check also the thermostat is not stuck closed but you should find that out if you can measure the temperatures before and after the stat with an infrared temp gun (very useful tool for many other jobs on a car - misfire, sticking brakes, etc)

Let us know how you get on with it 

Sounds like something is obstructing the boot from fully closing and is locked in this position.

Is there anyway of accessing the boot from inside the vehicle or even a pullcord somewhere on the rear bulkhead/seat area?

It does sound like turbo bearings have gone and the last thing you want is for the engine to be inducing oil through the turbo - can lead to a runaway engine!

If they can guarantee their diagnosis of the turbo being defective then unfortunately it's a case of biting the bullet and getting it done
 

 

Sounds like you have an air lock in the cooling system.
You'll need to work out where the air is (cool to touch when engine is at running temperature) and bleed it out