You should be able to use one of these to resolve the issue - Towing Can Bus Relay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171352163243?epid=11007713547&itmmeta=01HWWPERXZF1KG9K4MMBZW01YD&hash=item27e56283ab:g:tuQAAOSwzkVfaWEL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4Kqtbspe84444phqUhsdAq3QpdgWNB3L8frnK7WLGqNzDdVMgtxn4IWda%2B7g20VnVd5%2Fg8HVygAtaK5iFwTJOqJKZgpVjgDaIF9Y3eVJAVYadyUezXyC%2Br2cB98w3syU7Y5fqQAMkqYOc3Ppr%2BISC8Fq5X7vxhCeKWRdOVBJ%2Fd6L5GBYEFr0llLDqnt5kFVwBHay7xbNibCCSIDNOAT%2FqYPGC%2FUjUPaQ3H1GSvp3QSqJVtC7X27ENVFrleprNXhW5m95407hIIhfMiwmAWPY1f7dYabg8RlJwmbP2Tynk3SR|tkp%3ABFBMjI-7ludj

Hi....welcome to the Club

Good to have you onboard!

The vacuum kit looks like it should do the job nicely and at least you'll know there is no air left in the system.
Check also the thermostat is not stuck closed but you should find that out if you can measure the temperatures before and after the stat with an infrared temp gun (very useful tool for many other jobs on a car - misfire, sticking brakes, etc)

Let us know how you get on with it 

Sounds like something is obstructing the boot from fully closing and is locked in this position.

Is there anyway of accessing the boot from inside the vehicle or even a pullcord somewhere on the rear bulkhead/seat area?

It does sound like turbo bearings have gone and the last thing you want is for the engine to be inducing oil through the turbo - can lead to a runaway engine!

If they can guarantee their diagnosis of the turbo being defective then unfortunately it's a case of biting the bullet and getting it done
 

 

Sounds like you have an air lock in the cooling system.
You'll need to work out where the air is (cool to touch when engine is at running temperature) and bleed it out

Hi...welcome to the Club

Well it sounds like you have got there in the end!

Good to have you onboard!

Could be a coolant leak or slight leak from the exhaust which seals as it gets hot?

Hi....welcome to the Club

I would think there is a small hole in the intercooler or hose/pipe coming from the turbo
Usually a rubber hose creates a rasping sound but a small hole in any solidly constructed components can emit a whistle.
Alternatively, it is worth cleaning the turbo and also check for float on the shaft and condition of the compressor as you look into the exposed end of the turbo.

Try IceBoxAutos for replacement audio system and they are based in Liverpool so not too far away from you

Liquid Moly is a great product and have used it for years in engines and never had an issue

I would keep an eye on the consumption and it usually reduces when run in but sometimes they were never run in hard enough and the oil passes the rings.
Had it on motorbikes particularly and once driven hard enough over time the rings tend to bed into the bores a little more.
Also check to see if there is a heavier weight engine oil recommended for that engine and should be possible to use that in future until it stops using so much

Unable to judge the true size of these but look like windscreen stickers ?

Lever bar and a wedge of wood or something similar to protect the gearbox casing and gently (but with a bit of light force) lever the driveshaft from the gearbox.....it sits with a spring clip which holds it in place

Hi Peter....welcome to the Club

Good to have you onboard and hope the project goes well....keep us updated

Scrapyard would be best bet but would require replacement keys for doors if you go for the full set

usually built into the door latch mechanism

Could need fuel filter or Air Mass Meter which give similar symptoms

Alternatively, the turbo variable vanes might be gummed up with carbon

The best method is to get a scan done on the engine system to see what codes appear in the memory and go from there for a more specific diagnosis

I would start with a scan of the Engine Management System and go from there
A fault code should point you in the right direction

It sounds like something priming up or getting into position (recognise the sound but cannot place it though)

best bet would be to cut one off a scrap car (if you can still find a local car breakers yard)

You are correct in most of the procedure but I would put the cap on before the temperature rises too high.
Once if has had chance to settle down then release the cap when safe to do so (gradually to allow pressure to release and keep clear of the boiling water).
The level will then drop slightly. Refill to the level and do the same until the level no longer drops.
Always ensure the cap is tight and never release when hot and with too much pressure behind it.

If you have the parts to fit then go for it and also gives you a chance to totally flush through the old brake fluid and fill with fresh.....this is usually the problem as the valves stick as corroded with moisture in the fluid and contamination of the metal valve and body

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/e10-petrol-explained#compatibility

This will tell you the compatability of E10 in your car

if the thermostat is failing to open at around 88 degrees centigrade then your supply of stats is not reliable and would shop elsewhere.
Check also the coolant pressure cap as if this fails then it can lead to lower boiling point in the system 

It could be interference especially if the dashcam has wifi built in....experienced similar issues with this sort of thing before.
Maybe disconnect the dashcam and see if affects the radio operation

auto-locksmith would be your best bet and may be able to cut keys for it