Vauxhall Owners Club

Glad you're finally making headway on the car.

Put an advert up on this forum and I'm sure there will be some takers

Hi....welcome to the Forum Sorry to hear you've had so many issues with the Astra. I would say that as it has had work already done on the engine cooling system then that's clearly where the fault is. Engine coolant does just that 'cools the engine' and if any components fail or are lacking in an ability to achieve a regulated operating temperature then this is where the fault lies. If the engine is driven to destruction then this clearly is as a result of running out of coolant (leaks, etc) or it is something else, like a head gasket which could have been the original cause of the problem. As regards the piston rings being fried, it would only be evident upon tearing the engine down to examine it properly, or if you are very lucky, a compression test and a leak down test would reveal whether there is a lack of compression in the cylinders. I would advise taking it to another garage or have a mobile mechanic come round to diagnose it Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/ I would have no idea about cost...depends on the condition I suppose

I cannot remember the last time I saw one in the flesh....got to be incredibly rare now! There is a site that shows how many left on the road https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/

Hi Mick Can only think it may be a fuel pressure issue - maybe replace fuel filter. Otherwise, MAF or Turbo Vanes sticking? - Try disconnecting the MAF as should run better in default setting and see if that cures it. Turbo vanes (if equipped with Variable Vane) could be sticking, run cleaner through turbo and see if any better

Glad you got a result in the end....not too costly I hope?

let us know how you get on with it after the service

Hi ... welcome to the Forum I would start at the battery and work towards the starter motor, paying particular attention to the cables and connections. Don't forget to check the earth leads as they are just as important as the power leads. Check the terminals on the battery are tight and no corrosion. After that then I would be looking at relays and fuses Let us know how you get on with it all

more than likely just condensation from the engine doing short journeys and not heating up properly....could do with a good run and maybe then cleaning out any breather hoses

Best to take into a local garage that can accurately diagnose the electronic systems to establish the exact fault. Would probably avoid a dealership as they would just replace everything in sight

I would look at the Strut Top Mounts as these can cause the issue you are describing. If you raise the front of the car (both sides) and then turn the steering from lock to lock and if it doesn't bind then that is more than likely the problem (since the weight has been taken off the mounts). It will also give you the opportunity to see if there are any other points where the steering in binding

It sounds very much like the battery is completely dead and needs replacing. The electrical system needs a certain amount of charge to maintain the ECU memory and functions as well as trying to turn the starter over. I would definitely replace the battery for a good quality one....may cost more but will give better results

a bad earth will most definitely play havoc with warning lamps.....

Hi Peter To remove the steering lock assembly, you would need to remove the lower fascia from the steering column and remove the shear bolts with a hammer and centre punch so this may be the best method and then you could soak it in WD40 to loosen any sticking tumblers or completely replace the lock and key assembly.

The only other thing to look for then would be the Crankshaft Sensor which if defective would cut the engine and then sometimes restart later once it has cooled down or in the worse case, not at all. It won't necessarily always bring on a lamp but I would look towards changing it if the resistance is out of range or just cheap enough to replace regardless.

Hi...welcome to the Forum First thoughts are something may not have been plugged back in properly after removing the transmission. I would look in the general area where the gearbox is and see if everything is secure.

Sometimes the easiest way and you also end up with way more options as well

Hi...welcome to the Forum First thoughts are power distribution but if you say that the system relay is energising when switching the ignition on then you could rule that one out. Second thoughts are the Crank or Cam sensor which could cause the same symptoms. The fault code I think may have been historic or recorded once the fault initiated. Finally, have you checked the cambelt/chain is in the correct position, e.g. not slipped a tooth? Would be intrigued to know what the fault is Cheers , Trevor

Hi...welcome to the Forum Not all driveshafts will be the same (e.g.diesel will be different from petrol versions, etc) but if its just knocking when turning corners then you could just replace the outer CV (Constant Velocity) joint which will be the cheaper option. Let us know how you get on with it

I still believe the switch contacts are faulty. If you could locate the handbrake switch connectors and disconnect them / bridge them and see if that makes any difference ..... it would almost certainly eliminate it at the least

Sounds like it is a permanent (but momentary) issue with the immobiliser...do you have another key to try or if not, can you programme the key back into the vehicle again? Also, Cam Sensor can lead to poor starting, but not clicking relays though

I think that may be the best bet and also you have more functionality with an aftermarket system as well.

Welcome to the Forum Ady.....good to have you onboard

Very odd...but if it sporadically throws up these codes then fair enough but if they are permanent then you stand a better chance of resolving the issue....I would want to know if they are historic or permanent/current before going much further