Vauxhall Owners Club

Meaning of P0513 engine trouble code is a kind of powertrain trouble code and theoretically you can drive for a few weeks or even months with a broken MAF sensor. You will notice a decrease in gas mileage and over time the car will eventually start stalling a lot. At a shop, the replacement cost is between $240-$400 depending on the car, but that's usually the cost of parts because the labor is relatively simple. P0513 Fault Symptoms : Check engine light comes on Engine stalling or misfiring Engine performance issues Car not starting If one of these reasons for P0513 code is occuring now you should check P0513 repair processes. Now don't ask yourself; What should you do with P0513 code ? The solution is here :

Hi Not sure it's as simple as that if replacing the head from standard 1.0 to Twinport as there may be differences in the combustion chamber / piston crown that may affect the correct running. If the pistons travel freely without contacting the head or valves then at least that is one thing less to worry about, then that just leaves the inlet manifold to replace with one for the Twinport and see how you get on. Please let us know the outcome as I personally would be interested to know if it works.

lol....that's the most important thing

Hi SueR....welcome to the Forum Wow! that's a blast from the past.....haven't seen a badge bar in years. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=badge+bar&_sacat=0 It would just be a case of drilling holes in the bumper to fit it. Let us know if you buy one and fit it...would love to see a pic of the final result. Cheers, Trevor

No probs!

I have done this on a VW and you do literally swap the wires around (power leads) from memory.

great (and cheap) results all round then

OMG that is so dangerous....if it has got this bad it should have been scrapped....lucky you spotted it and replaced it in time Thanks for sharing the pic, hopefully if anyone else with this type of wheel sees this then it may raise awareness that this type is susceptible to cracking in this area.

yes, that is fine and it locates when the wheel bolts are inserted and tightened. Usually, there is some screw or locating device to aid the refitting of the wheel but if it is missing it is not really a safety issue, just inconvenient

Not entirely sure but chances are it would need setting up onto the CanBus system....easiest way is to try it and see. Let us know how you get on with it

It probably is electronic....easiest way to determine is to look under the accelerator pedal and if you see a sensor with wires under the pedal then it is electronic and no cable to the engine.

Result!! can't believe how someone could (badly) weld a rim centre and expect it to be safe

Sorry to hear that your experience with Diesel engines so far is not a good one....generally, if the engine is run hard constantly there isn't usually an issue as the fuel burns clean. If you have inherited a 'one careful owner' car then this usually rings alarm bells by suggesting that the car has been smoked around town at low revs and everything is blocked up. In regards to the leak-back measurements....golden rule is 'as little as possible' in the pots...sounds like the engine needs an 'Italian Tune-Up' to clear it through, let is settle down and then recheck the measurements. It wouldn't do any harm to run a strong injector cleaning solution through the fuel (premium quality fuel) to clean the injectors as they sound as though they are contaminated with carbon as well. Change the oil and filter at some stage as well as you don't want a 'runaway' engine with all that fuel washdown in the oil. Use low-ash oil recommended for DPF engines and a quality filter as well. Let us know how you get on with it all Cheers, Trevor

I can't work it out from this picture...can you take a picture looking down into the engine bay

Hi Yvonne....welcome to the Forum I would drive it to a Hydraulic hose repair shop (you should find something listed in your local area) and ask them to quote for a replacement pipe or hose to be made up. It doesn't usually cost much and is a cheaper option than an original part, if you could manage to find one nowadays. Let us know how you get on with this Cheers, Trevor

Hi Derek....welcome to the Forum I would check that the sensors are clean and they are easy to check to see if they are working. Place the gear in reverse, switch the ignition on so the warning lights illuminate on the instrument panel BUT NOT WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING then listen carefully to each sensor and you should hear a light clicking noise if they are working correctly. Generally, if there is no clicking noise then it is likely to be a faulty sensor. Let us know what you find

that's always a good feeling when you kill off a noise....problem is you can then hear the other ones when the original noise was dominant Let us know how it goes with the fan and sensor replacement

The Twinport engine is best described in this article https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/?t=40238 The paint code should be on a sticker somewhere on the door post, visible when the door is open or in the engine bay somewhere.

I think if the sensor is missing then it could have been an issue with the past or someone has stolen it (which is more likely). I would replace it and also check any fuses for a live feed to the fans, otherwise keep digging until you find the cause as you will more than likely need them running soon with the summer coming up

Sounds like a leaking boot seal....you could try adjusting the latch to see if you can draw down the tailgate to seal it a bit tighter

I don't believe it is an issue for the needle to move up to 'normal' position especially as the weather is getting warmer but obviously as long as it doesn't exceed normal and it drops once the thermostat opens. Just keep an eye on it and see how it goes....also listen out for the fan operating and if you can't hear running when the temperature climbs up then you may have an issue there.

Hi....welcome to the Forum I always used Abacus for replacement body panels . http://abacusap.com/ Hopefully they can help

Okay....so they weren't cheap then Please do let us know how you get on with it and always useful knowing a good supplier of coded keys

Hi....welcome to the Forum I suppose it depends on how good condition the roads are where you are as I personally wouldn't run on 40mm drop with low profiles but 30mm all round would give the car the right stance and still return sensible (?) driveability. Let's see a pic of it once its lowered....be good to see what it looks like

Hi Andy The old school Cavaliers were excellent cars but as you say, the tinworm usually got the better of them. Use to work on so many of them and they just went on forever. We usually have a parts page but that is in the process of being updated at this current time. Feel free to post any questions...will see what we can do to help Cheers Trevor