Vauxhall Owners Club

Sounds like settings in the back end .... either the audio or the phone, my bet is on the phone settings. Can you try another phone to see if it happens on that also

Sorry to hear about the accident, hope you are okay though. It sounds like some wiring or a connection is damaged (say between the metal of the wing, etc) and you would need to carry out a visual inspection in the area of the damage. Check also that the earth connections are intact as if there is no earth then you would get zero volts as the circuit is incomplete

There is some tape on eBay which is incredibly strong and industrial but cannot remember the name of it so worth doing a search for tape and see which one is more expensive than most of the others and that may be it as I know it is not cheap

Hi Chris I would say it is either the Air Conditioning on and running the fan and if not equipped then it is more than likely a faulty Coolant Temperature Sensor / Sender providing incorrect information causing the fan to believe it is warmer than it actually is

Hi Tony....welcome to the Club Another Dorset member....good to have you on board!

HI Chris.....welcome to the Club The Corsa is an ideal car to commute and drive around towns. Good to have you onboard!

Thanks for letting us know its now sold. Shame a Vauxhall owner didn't acquire it but at least the new owner is reducing their carbon footprint

The good thing (amongst many) is that Astra parts are cheap to buy

It could be the EGR and worth blanking off to be on the safe side Also, check the turbo hoses to be sure they are not holed

There are companies that rebuild instrument panels....try these guys https://cartronix.co.uk/

Thats the trouble with calipers, I had one lock up on my BMW Z3 on a motorway and although I could drive it (like it had the handbrake full on) when I got to a service station i let it cool down and could drive for a while longer. Another factor is that if it has been driven for a distance like this then the pads will probably be overheated and start to show signs of crumbling on the friction lining material. They would then also need replacing with the caliper

Sorry, not sure....I guess the only way is to remove the panel and strip it back to see what is occurring (loose connections, dry joints, etc) Let us know what you find

You should be able to connect the phone if you pair the devices. It may be necessary to clear out any existing phones in the system before another can be connected. The system won't upgrade to DAB due to its age but you can get plug-in devices to get DAB through eBay, Halfords, etc

It sounds like a turbo issue....is there a whistling/chuffing noise when under load (e.g. turbo boost hoses split?) it may be an injector fault but I would check for split hoses first. Not sure why the OBD port is not communicating though

The fuel cut off works by either an inertia cut off switch that is usually mounted on the bulkhead area and deploys in the event of a crash and is reset by pressing the rubber button down. Alternatively, the crankshaft sensor generates a signal to show the engine is rotating and if it is not then it cuts the fuel.

Keep us updated on the progress Andy...not that I'm nagging you to get it done

It does sound very much like an alternator issue. take it somewhere to have it tested and it should be putting out around 14volts

Have you checked the crankshaft sensor as the fuel system needs to see a signal that the engine is rotating before fuel is delivered. Also, ensure that the fuel inertia cutoff switch is not off - reset the switch to ensure it is on and the fuel pump can then operate

Sounds like the battery is the root cause of all the issues. The sensors can be heard to click very fiently if working but may need coding.

I would run a scan on the system and see what codes appear. Sounds like the pressure is building up in the turbo but also could be variable vanes gummed up and may benefit from running some turbo cleaner through it

Have a look to see if the oil is diluted...increased level and also smells of fuel Worth having the injectors checked on a rig if in doubt

I would change the cambelt first as if it is slack it can generate codes for crank and especially cam sensor as the two are out of sync Also, ensure the fuel is going to high pressure pump....maybe also change the filter first to see whats in there

Thanks for the updated information and photos (I have increased your image upload capacity). Very useful if anyone else encounters this issue. (pinned to top of Insignia section of the forums) Glad it turned out to be a very cheap repair with no replacement parts needed

Quite an eventful weekend then Andy! Seized calipers are unforgiving and fortunate you were local as it can generate huge amount of heat which can also be transferred to the fluid and boil that leaving you with no brakes. Trailering it home was the most sensible method in this case. Maybe worth considering changing the other side if you think it may go the same way and just being pre-emptive and sorting it before it becomes an issue?

I personally would go with the 1.4 turbo if using around town. Maybe consider the 1.6 if using on motorways predominantly