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I'm trying to find the correct part for a vauxhall insignia 2010 cdti The part in question Im told isa hand brake module Ecua33g Not really got any more info than that

Hi Phil. I've just done some Google searching, and found that it looks like you have to get to it from under the wheel arch. Removing the plastic liner will give you access to the lock mechanism. Hope this helps. Andy.

Maybe better to go for a reconditioned unit with a good warranty The fluid in the existing box will tell a story of whether the clutch plates are worn out - smells of burnt toast and the filter should have trapped lots of debris. Which means the death knell for that gearbox.

Ok thank you for taking the time to respond. I did hear they were weaker than the MK3 Mondeo and not that great for towing. My thanks

Vauxhall gearboxes are renowned for being weak but still carry on until they finally go - which can be years, running with noisy gears, poor selection, etc

Check the large fuse / fuseable link for damage (e.g. cracks or burn marks) Also, check the battery condition as this can drop to a low voltage when starting and this can flag fault codes

Grey/Blue smoke could be oil being burnt....valve seals possibly. Does the smoke smell of oil? Does it occur when hot or cold?

Hi. I have and tried two different ones. For some reason the OEM one on a SRI seems between the diameters of the various threads!

Have you looked at the ones in Halfords? I'm sure they have different size connectors in the range

Not entirely sure, but try holding the power button or maybe even the brightness level should switch to low illumination

Let us know how you get on with it

I have had my Astra in and out the garage for months now. fault: intermittent driving and it feels as if it’s bad fuel or fuel not getting through. go into 1st gear and the acceleration feels as if it’s chugs as I drive. Go into 2nd ok for minute then same problem. had timing chain changed/spark/new Cat also. plugs/valves all done. They tested the fuel pressure and it was fine they said. Engine management light comes up every 2 wks or so. The code is related to camshaft position. Picking car up again today and they can’t pin this down. The mechanics say they have tried everything. anyone had similar weird problems. Or can enlighten me on an option for the problem. Thank you for any input. I don’t want to get rid of my car, unless I have too.

Yeah iv got a breaker bar coming today will give it a go on the car and the impact wrench and hopefully it will loosen up, been waiting for this rain to stop were I am lol.

Superb figure to achieve.....well done Andy

I've usually kept the vehicle weight on the ground and used an impact wrench on the nut and its worked. As it is rubber mounted at the top of the damper then this can absorb some of the impact from the wrench and cancel out the torque being applied. Also may be worth using a long breaker bar if you can get it in the space Can always spin it on a couple of turns to jack it up again Maybe take it to a garage with a bigger impact wrench to see if it shifts

I managed to get my speedo reading the other day on a special figure. It works out that I've also done just over 2000 miles since the mot in February.

Guidance/ advice reqd, The central locking on the filler flap has begun to screech when locking and unlocking as though metals rubbing on metal. I can't see how to get access to it unless its behind the boot liner. My Haynes doesn't even mention it surprisingly. Want to exam and sort it before it craps out and stops working. I've tried hosing wd40 through the lock bar aperture but as I can't see its just spray and prey, and so for its not helped. Any of you guys delved into this? Cheers, Phil

Hi everyone, Newbie here, I’ve had an insignia now for just over 1 year and I just wanted to share a spreadsheet I’ve been using to log my mileage. It’s 100% geek mode so please bear with me. As a quick guide it’s a 2014 cdti ecoflex with 163bhp standard, I’ve had it remapped recently (noted on the sheet) to around 210bhp the tuner tells me. I’ll keep updating it, be interesting to see how the remap has effected mpg too. I drive to work 5/6 times a week only 11miles away from home so not amazingly far away to be classed as a long commute. It’s averaging 41mpg I thought it would have been higher tbh but I think it’s down to the short trips to and from work. Please let me know if it’s any use to anyone. Feedback welcome. Thanks.

Got petrol 1.4 turbo Sri when weather is hot/car parked in sun have warning alerts service/ping alerts ESC/SERVICE power steering drive with care spent£800.00 last year at vauxhall on diagnostic machine not find error code except for faulty purge valve had it replaced did not have any issues due to no hot weather until last wkend and issues started again spoke to vauxhall garage all they said was bring it in and put on diagnostic machine again at £140.00 an hr

My son has a 2016 Corsa SRI which has intermittent DAB reception. Starting with the easier fixes first and have tried and failed to find a replacement aerial. All the ones I've tried have either too large or too small threads. Can anyone suggest where to look for the right size replacement?

Hi guys . I've recently bought a 2014 insignia 2.0 cdti It's had engine light on since I've got it . I've replaced the maf today with a brand new bosch one erased the fault code but had come back on . P0101 code . Maf performance in correct Any idea what else it could be please guys . Don't want to throw loads of money at diffo parts . Rather fix the actual problem Cheers

Hello all! It's great to be back in Vauxhall land, after owning a P reg Astra estate many years back. I'm hoping someone may be able to help me. I've bought a nice Zafira C, 2012 Diesel A20 DTH 165 BHP 2.0 litre automatic. Its a top spec car, but the previous owner didn't care much for the bodywork in a couple of places, and got rid of it when the gearbox started failing. So I'm going to make it look good again, but before I spend any time or cash on that, I need to solve the gearbox problem. Symptoms: When in drive, the car slips badly, to the point where it might not move. It appears to slip less when you get some momentum. When you put it in reverse, it doesn't seem to slip at all. We did have an issue where there was a hole in the radiator for cooling the oil. We replaced that and topped the oil back up, but other than being able to drive through the gears (whereas initially it was stuck in third), it hasn't solved the slipping problem. I took the solenoid pack off the box and tested it electrically, and all appeared to be within tollerance. I did suspect the torque converter, but having realised it doesn't seem to slip in reverse, whereas it slips very badly in first, I suspect that the torque converter is not likely to be at fault? Any help much appreciated! I don't have a big budget, and I like to try and solve problems / keen to learn. I also have a friend with a proper car ramp so we can get the box off. The plate on the box has sadly worn, so not all the numbers are clear. I can read: TF-80SC AF40. Then I think it says W1280 beneath. Serial number starts 12C36...374 (can't read between). Open to any ideas! (Or if you know anyone with a second hand box for sale, I may be interested! It would be great to save the car! Thanks! Paul.

Update to leak,it's not coolant it's definitely water,when blower is turned on to screen and heat,or no heat there is steady drip under car but when blower turned off,no drip! I'm thinking it's something to do with condenser from ac? Still trying to figure it out,any input would be helpfull!

I have had this warning light on for months - garage has looked at it and found nothing obvious. They clear it and it comes back after a few days. We assumed it was EGR-related. So van was finally booked in. Van broke down on the M6. Van relayed to garage and they replaced (both? - i didn't know it had 2) EGR valves and also turbo was knackered. £2300 later, van drives out, working fine then 250 miles down the road, same error message comes back. In addition - coolant loss is constant. No leaks visible. Pressure test passed. UV dye used - nothing seen. No coolant in oil. No steam in exhaust. Typically 1/2 litre of coolant needed every 100 miles to top up to expansion tank level - if i do a long drive and forget to top it up on way home, i get "engine Stop".. so i fill it up and away we go. I have no garage who seems to know what is wrong and i cannot afford to keep spending money on it, on the off-chance they find something. Looking online, others seem to have similar issues but no solution is ever published. Any help at all from anyone on either issue - are they related? Many thanks in advance

PRICE DROP - £2500!!!!!