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Hi have you still got them?

I would advise you pop into your local dealership parts department and get them to print out the diagram listing the individual parts for that component. Then you can order the relevant parts and also see how it all comes apart if the diagram is detailed enough. I also tend to ask parts departments if a particular parts sells a lot of - that way you can determine whether it is a known issue or not

How did you get on with it - any conclusion as to the cause ? Possibility it could be a mechanical issue but without testing that is hard to determine

that sounds more like gummed up vanes within the turbo - you could try a cleaner to see if that makes a difference - cheapest way to start and then give it an Italian Tune-up to clear the excess carbon from the engine. But if there is excess carbon on the turbo variable vanes and the plugs are contaminated with oil I would believe it may be a little more serious. A cylinder leak test would reveal if there is any wear or damage to a particular cylinder or valves - an easy test but may struggle to find a garage that has one or knows how to use it effectively to diagnose the issue

I would normally search through eBay first and see if other models such as Carlton may have same part numbers

According to this Google search, it appears it may be integrated inside the Engine ECU - worth checking hoses and electrical connections to and from the ECU

Hi AnyaMarie - welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

hello I have just joined thank you for having me, I am looking for N/S/F ABS speed sensor also N/S/R ABS speed sensor I have tried eBay auto Dock General Motors J M auto parts GSF parts GMF parts can anyone help Thank you Regards Geoff

Hi all, anyone know where to attach an oil pressure gauge on an insignia Bi6dth diesel engine to get a reading of the pressure?

Hi ive just joined a week ago I bought a Vauxhall meriva just wanted to say hello

I have the following diagnostic code P2226 Barometric pressure sensor no voltage Anyone tell me where it is?

I have a brand new and packaged tow bar complete with all nuts bolts and fittings for a five door 1.6 1998 astra any offers accepted . thanks Rick on 07889220124

Wanted Rear high vis LED boot brake light for astra g convertible 1.8 2004 This is fitted to the back of the boot on the convertible and there are no new ones available . Anyone have one of these to sell me I would be very grateful. Thanks Rick

Thanks for that! Will try to get dealer to find the problem under the warranty ie free of charge!

Anyone know what they call the water outlet from the cylinder head which has the vacuum pump attached is called. this is on my 2010 2ltr cdti sports tourer. also, where can I get a new metal gasket for this unit as mine leaks like a sieve after the thermostat opens. It’s not coming from the vacuum pump as some u tube videos suggest. I have back flushed the rad, engine block and heater matrix and have no other leaks. Any body got 5 litres of unleaded and a match maybe. Suggestions please.

Hi, Sorry, not sure of exact wiring, had to get a auto electrician to sort it. It was identified at the rear wheel drivers side. I had this for months, so a relief this sorted it out.

Don’t suppose you know which wiring and were this is ? Thanks Mark it’s driving me nuts!

I have had some smoke but only intermittent. Like I can be driving then suddenly the car will feel like it’s lost all power, kick out some like pure white smoke then be ok for a short while. i could be ok for a few miles of driving then it would repeat.

Hi. I had this issue for 9 months… Got the abs wiring checked and it was a loose connection. Been totally fine for 4 weeks now.. At last a solution!

Hello. I own a Petrol 2012 Meriva. Today, after driving 70mph several warning lights randomly came on on the dashboard including the TC light (it had the letters on it) and the Skidding light (I believe it’s the Electronic Stability Control light along with the Engine Management light. The car started to rumble and chug a little so I pulled over into a lay-by. I let it settle for a min and tried to restart, it cranked once, and then nothing. Every attempt after than it didn’t even crank, but warning lights no-longer on. RAC arrived and did all the usual checks. Fuel was ok. Oil was ok (but added a little I had in the boot anyway). CKP ok whatever that is, Battery was ok. It couldn’t be jump started. Battery reset was performed. He removed the 4 coils from the center of the engine and tried a new set from his van, but still the same. He unplugged the cables next to the coils and cleaned/WD40’d them, still nothing. He ran diagnostics but no codes were stored. By the time he was finished it was cranking every time (even now several hours later) but it’s just not firing or getting past the initial crank. I double checked with a code reader and still no codes. He said it needs further investigation, so it was towed to my house as local garage is closed today. I know it’s a long shot, but is there anything else I can look into, or check? Or anything I should be aware of? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks for your time.

Well I removed the throttle body and gave it a good dowsing of carb cleaner. It was very Carboned up below the butterfly. I'm going to give the EGR a clean out too. And hopefully it will be a good cure.

OK cheers for this will take a look at this I Ave had a look on taken the door card off but did not get around to getting it all the way off as it seemed to e stuck at top, but will try your reply first

Sorry for late update on this I ended up changing the resoviar and low and behold message gone on looking in side of the old one the float was not working so happy days thanks for any reply n this

A few problems there to deal with then! - the window may be a wiring issue. If you open the door, with the ignition on and your finger on the button and slowly open and close the door at the same time and see if this triggers the window to operate. If so then it may well be the wiring coming from the A-Pillar/Bulkhead area to the drivers door (wiring inside rubber trunking breaks where door opens and closes frequently more than the other doors) The whistling sounds may well be a turbo boost hose or intercooler leak which is causing the noise

May be worth checking the level on a flat surface when the engine is cold and if still comes on then try adding some more coolant/water to bring it up near the top line (max) rather than the lower line (min). Had an issue on a Nissan Juke when it said brake fluid low - checked it looked fine, added the smallest amount of fluid to the reservoir and the light went out.