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Westcliff67

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Everything posted by Westcliff67

  1. Hi All. Now the engine mount has been replaced I have noticed that clanking and banging going over speed bumps has stopped and the car now steers in the direction I want it to go in. Not been able to get hold of my friends reader as yet but some good weather coming means I might be able to get to the bow rams and look at the micro switches at the top and bottom of these monsters keep you all posted
  2. It is just around the corner, and we have had some cracking weekends that I've not been able to work on the cabby. Luckily one of my work colleagues has acquired one of those ODBC readers that reads everything the car does so hopefully I can read the sensor codes to find out what has failed. Just hope it does just say "unable to determine the roof position" Now that would be a real kick in the a**e
  3. So new update about the sump problem. Once I got the car back I drove it for about 2 miles and noticed a rumbling from the front of the car and the ABS and traction control lights came on. Strangely the lights went out when restarted. Took it back to the garage who did the work and gave it a really good inspection. my man found that the rear engine mount was cracked and everything was slightly out of line. Unfortunately that is another main dealer part about £90 odd. I'm just waiting for it to come in then the garage can fit it. Keep you posted
  4. HI Andy I've still not been able to sort the problem. Every thing seems to be Ok with the wiring. I've replaced the Pump, ECU and the Electric locking motor. I think the only thing left is for me to strip out the interior to gain access to the main rams and check the microswitches for these. This is something I have been putting off as I need to strip out the rear seats, then the side panels and I have no idea how to do that on the Cabby. I'm planning on spending more time over the summer on this problem. However... The cabby is in the garage for a sump change - I hit an exposed water hydrant puling into my drive way. I came to a very sudden and abrupt stop and grounded myself on the hydrant. Once removed and taken to my friendly car doctor, he found a replacement sump for about £86 but the oil filter adaptor had a crack in it and oil leaked from that. Que Vauxhall main dealer part....oh dear thinks me, but was surprised to find a replacement part only cost an additional £53ish. I hope to get the car back this week. I will keep you updated to this tale of woe
  5. Update for the roof So I removed all the trim from inside the boot to get access to the Roof ECU, I replaced it with the one I got from Ebay from a known working car. I reset the roof positions and turn on, now I get 12 beeps instead of the 6 beeps from before the replacement. The only thing left to do replace the roof hydraulic pump. tune in soon for the next installment of Cabby Roof problems Cliff
  6. Hi everyone Quick update, I just won on ebay an ECU for £12.60 for a car enthusiast who was scrapping him cabby with the right OEM number. If I get it by the weekend I will fit it. I found how to take the old one out. I will lock the roof in the down position. I found that by reaching down the side flap on the roof you can access the Tonneu cover hydraulic ram and lock the roof down. Hopefully, once locked down and a new ECU the roof will work. If not I will have to look at the wiring again. Or I might have to bite the bullet and try replacing the hydraulic roof pump (I have a spare when I bought the passenger door with other bits I bought recently) Keep you all updated as I think I've been over just about every part of the car that normally does not get seen Cliff
  7. Yes but at the cost of a complete door, however, my old door was dented by a previous spank, but it keeps the car dry now. I've posted about my roof problem, just won a new ECU for £12.60 so that will go in at the end of the week
  8. Hello All Hope you are all keeping safe and well. Last year I was opening the rook on my 2001 Bertone Convertible, the roof got half way back - the front had come up, the rear window had risen upright, then the roof stopped and beeping started. I managed to put the roof down manually by cranking the roof latches back in place with an allen key. Went out for a trip and obviously the tonneu cover was not locked down. I manually locked the roof. Fast forward to 2020 and furlough lockdown and I'm having a go at fixing the roof. I downloaded some instructions and schematics. So far I have found that the wiring loom in the boot was damaged previously and repaired with insulation tape. I soldered these wires and heat shunk them, the boot light now works and the micro switch is ok. in the roof storage area on the passenger side the micro switch was tested ok, on the driver side there is a wiring loom that runs into the roof I opened it up and found several wires broken and repaired them correctly. The Micro switch under the hand brake works correctly (red light on dash when applied), I changed the roof latch motor. The hydraulic pump in the boot is filled to the correct level both up and down, there are no leaks on the any of the hydraulic rams or pipework. I tried to reset the Roof ECU by having the roof front open, the rear window in the op right position and the tonneu cover is down but not locked, the engine and ignition are off. Turn the key to the on position and hold the roof close button. still nothing, the only thing left is to change the roof ECU. My unit is CCC1-101023 and a number 81050797 - I can get a emplacement but the number is 81050801 or 81050811. Does any one know if these will work on my car?
  9. Hi Everyone Just an update about the dropped window. I solved the problem, I replaced the whole door as I couldn't get the regulator our and it was cheaper too (£37.50 for full door against £35 for regulator). It urns out that the threaded mushroom stop the window in the correct place for your car, The were too low so when the window closed the glass came up too high. 5 minutes adjustment and the window closed perfectly. I think the real problem was the regulator had been "repaired" and the repairer had used pop rivets to put bolt it all together, please correct me if I'm wrong Kind regards Cliff
  10. Hi I adjusted the front 'mushroom' downwards in relation to the bottom of the door. What that one seems to do is to drop the window further when opening the door. Adjusting it upwards doesn't help and I'm afraid to adjust it too much in case it comes out of its' hole. Unfortunately I have not been able to adjust the rear 'mushroom' yet as I need to remove the door card to gain access to it and see what happens to it, - summer holidays means that I'm out and about most weekends. The adjustment still has not affected the window closing height. I'm thinking more and more that the window mechanism needs to be replaced. I will update you once I've tried the other 'mushroom' Cliff
  11. Hello I've had the door card off, quite simple even thought the AutoGlass guy said it was a nightmare to remove, 6 screws and a few pop stud things. The mechanism seems to be in the right location doesn't look like its slipped. There are these threaded 'mushrooms' that fit into holes in the door bottom. They are on the window bottom metal. I think they may be stops but one is rusted in place the other is very loose. I will try to adjust them and see what happens many thanks for your help, it is much appreciated Cliff
  12. Hi Thank you for the welcome The window drops as it is supposed to do with the door opening and rises when closed it just doesn't go up the last bit. The drivers door is fine, it works as I expect it to. Cliff
  13. Hello Everyone Sorry if this has been posted before but I couldn't find anything about this subject. I have a 2001 Astra Bertone convertible, I have a problem that my passenger door window has dropped about 1inch and will not go all the way up. Initially I thought the mechanism had come loose, so I stripped off the door panel and plastic for find the electric mechanism is ok and in place. There are 2 mushroom looking screw blots on the traverse bar that can go through holes in the bottom of the door. Do these adjust the windows? they look like they are some sort of stopping device to halt the rise of the windows, any one got any ideas? Many thanks in advance Cliff
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