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jtheophilus

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    Bath
  • Car Model
    Insignia 2011

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  1. This is an appeal for advice about the best way to charge a battery in a 2010 Vauxhall Insignia Nav Elite 2.0l Diesel EcoFlex with a compatible battery charger I have already purchased. The main advice I am appealing for is whether to charge the battery whilst the battery is connected in-situ in the engine compartment of the car or whether to take the battery out of the car before charging it. Charging the battery in-situ If I charge the battery whilst the battery is connected in-situ in the engine compartment of the car, I have read I might cause damage to the alternator. Is this a genuine and realistic risk and should I therefore not charge the battery whilst the battery is connected in-situ in the engine compartment of the car? Regardless of the answer to the above question, if I charge the battery whilst the battery is connected in-situ in the engine compartment of the car, I am required to connect the negative charger lead not to the negative terminal of the battery, but to the car's ground connection on either the engine or the chassis of the car away from fuel lines and the battery vents. Please can somebody suggest exactly the best ground connection on the engine or the chassis of the car I could connect the negative charger lead to? Removing the battery If I remove the battery from the car, not only does this introduce slightly additional and potentially avoidable inconvenience, I have also read it might lock the security, navigation and or entertainment systems of the car and I would need to use codes, which I am sure I have somewhere, to unlock, although this would take time and effort for me to investigate to see if I could try to do myself to avoid having to pay for someone to do this for me? I am concerned I might completely immobilise the car. Please can someone confirm either way whether or not if I remove the battery from the car it will result in me needing to use the keys that I am sure I have somewhere to unlock the security, navigation and or entertainment systems? Many thanks in advance of any helpful answers to my questions and any contribution provided that helps me decide how best to charge the battery my car.
  2. Are you saying that an exciter is an integral part of a ballast, opposed to being a component external to the ballast, bulb, headlight unit, etc.?
  3. Yes, I had thought that one way of testing if a ballast is working is to swap it with the ballast on the other side. However, what is putting me off doing this is that it necessitates removing the front bumper off and then of course later re-attaching the bumper, which may be easy for some people to do, but not necessarily easy for me to do. How would a garage test whether a ballast is working. One garage suggested that the problem could be with the "exciter", although I have not managed to establish what an "exciter" is. Also, a Vauxhall main dealer suggested that lights need resetting after fitting a new bulb, although they did not provide any more information, nor have I heard before of any requirement to have to reset lights after fitting new bulbs.
  4. On the dashboard of my 2011 Vauxhall Insignia Elite Nav, message "Check Right Dipped Beam Lamp" is being displayed. I have correctly fitted each of two brand new bulbs to the relevant connection and the light still does not work each time, so it is reasonable to rule out that the cause of the reported fault is the bulb. The right low beam fuse is fuse 49, the left low beam fuse is fuse 50. I swapped fuses 49 and 50 around, but the left headlight continued to work and the right headlight continued to not work, so I think that rules out the fuse as the cause of the problem. Can anyone suggest any other potential causes of this problem and therefore also anything else I can do to try to resolve this problem. In lieu of any suggestion, at the moment I am hypothesising that the cause of this problem is a faulty ballast control module unit. One way to test this hypothesis is to replace the ballast control module unit. However, a replacement ballast control module unit is not cheap, so this would be an expensive way to test whether the ballast control module unit is faulty, especially if I find out that the the ballast control module unit is not faulty. Does anyone know of a way to check whether a ballast control module unit is faulty without replacing the unit and ideally without removing or even loosening the front bumper? I would be very grateful for any suggestion posted.
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